Having recently visited the Tutankhamen exhibition at London’s O2 centre, I wasn't expecting to be as surpised and amazed as I was on my first visit to Egypt. The country is a vast open-air museum and each day felt like we were venturing into the next room.
Less than 10 minutes north of Luxor town centre, Karnak is a photographer’s dream and my personal favourite of all we visited. The columns and carvings are so impressive and listening to Hany translating the hieroglyphs and cartouches was fascinating and certainly far more informative than my trusted Rough Guide or Lonely Planet.
There are more than 200 boats of varying quality and size that cruise between Luxor and Aswan, offering 3, 4, 6 and 7-night cruises. The Mirage is a good 5-star boat and has all the facilities anyone could need, including a small swimming pool and shaded sundeck. There are other even more luxurious boats such as the new Oberoi Zahra, which has its own on-board spa, but the Mirage is a modern, clean boat and serves excellent food, which has a great atmosphere that is great for groups.
At the port in Luxor, I hadn’t really considered that there would be so many boats and I did fear that what looked like a vast car park of cruise boats moored up, would result in traffic jams along the river. But partly due to the fact the Mirage is one of the faster boats on the Nile, and mainly because the boats have to queue up to get through Esna lock two at a time, on the free afternoon once we had navigated through the lock and continued on the way to Edfu, it felt as if we had the Nile to ourselves. Whilst moored up at Esna waiting in the queue, we spent an entertaining few hours on the top deck of the boat bartering with locals in their rowing boats for their handicrafts, which they would throw up to us on the deck to look at and then when a deal was agreed, we would drop the money back down in a small bag, inevitably landing in the water! Whilst the East and West Banks tell the story of the Egypt of the past, cruising down the Nile gives a glimpse into the daily life of the Egyptians of today. Small farms and villages are scattered along the river’s fertile valley and cattle, donkeys and camels graze the banks as the cruise boats sail by and watching the way of life of the rural Egyptians it’s as if time has stood still and tourists are transported back 2000 years.
Early in the morning on the last day of the cruise we flew from Aswan to Abu Simbel, to see the famous temples of Ramses II and his queen, Nefetari. Not only is it the sheer size of the statues at Abu Simbel that has made the temples a must-see on any visit to Egypt, but it is also the enormity of the feat of engineering that was undertaken in the 1960s that propelled it to world-fame. The enormous task involved cutting the monument by hand into more than 1000 blocks and rebuilding the entire structure 210m behind, and 61m above the original site. This controversial undertaking successfully saved the monument from the rising waters of Lake Nasser with the construction of the Aswan High Dam and even with close inspection, it is virtually impossible to notice any sign of the temple being cut.
The 7-night Wonders of Egypt tour starts from £1005 per person, including international flights, accommodation with breakfast and full board on the cruise, guided excursions and transfers. Click here to view Cox & Kings' range of Egypt tours.
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