A Journey Through the Amazon

Quality Control Executive Heather Fitsell recently
travelled to Ecuador's Amazon.










A very early start saw us beat Quito’s rush hour traffic and hit the Pan American Highway, known in Ecuador as the ‘Avenue of Volcanoes’, as en-route we passed numerous mountains including Cotopaxi, Tungurahua, Antisana and Illinisas (left). We stopped for Ecuadorian ice cream in Salcedo, which is a town famous for producing what is a cross between ice cream and an ice-lolly, as we know them.


Having passed through the provinces down the Pan American Highway, we turned towards Baños and our destination, the town of Shell, named after the oil company. On arrival in Shell we boarded a Cessna 6-seater aircraft for our 45-minute journey into the Amazon jungle and our final destination, the award-winning ‘Huaorani Eco Lodge’, which was reached by quilla (canoe) down the Shiripuno River, completing a journey by land, air and sea.


The Huaorani Eco Lodge consists of just 5 cabins, built in traditional Huaorani style, and opened at the start of this year. The project is run by the Huaorani people with the help of a local Ecuadorian company and was developed as an alternative income source to working for the oil companies, which are destroying much of the Amazon rainforest. The lodge offers an authentic cultural experience for adventurous travellers. For those looking for more comfort we would suggest the Napo Wildlife Centre or Sacha Lodge, in the same area but a little farther north.

After a short rest we were taken on a night walk following a short trail through the jungle near the lodge. We found large spiders, large parasite trees and Huaorani torches that use moonlight to guide the way. After dinner combining local jungle food such as manioc and fresh fruit, we fell asleep to the noises of the jungle in preparation of the following day’s hike.

After awaking to a morning chorus and an early breakfast, we put on our boots, covered ourselves in sun cream and insect repellent, filled up our water bottles and set off on our hike through the jungle to the local Huaorani village of Quehueri’ono (keh-weri-oh-noh). After an hour I felt deceived by all the nature programmes that I had seen about the Amazon, as none of them show you how hilly it is. Up and down, up and down we went, and whilst you could have wrung the sweat out of my clothes, there was not a drop to be seen on our Huaorani guide Eme, for the whole of our four and a half hour trek (a much shorter 1 hour walk is available and recommended). Despite the unexpected terrain, humidity, temperature and hard work involved, this was a very rewarding excursion. We stopped at regular intervals to have a go at hunting Huaorani-style, by spear throwing, using a blow gun and making a basket similar to those used to carry the catch back to the community. We were ultimately rewarded with a refreshing swim in the Shiripuno River, before having lunch on the riverbank.

In the afternoon we visited the community of Quehueri’ono, which is where most of the lodge employees live, arriving to lots of greetings of “Waponi” (Huaorani word for hello, goodbye, thank you and just about anything else!). The ladies and girls of the community greeted us in the school and did a small song and dance for us in exchange for us singing ‘Twinkle Twinkle Little Star’, whilst looking like Pippi Longstocking in our Huaorani face paint. They then showed us the handicrafts that they had made for purchase from local materials, which included, necklaces, bracelets, bags, hammocks, wooden machetes and miniature blowguns.


The rest of our time in the community was spent visiting local families in both traditional Huaorani and more modern style homes, and interacting with members of the community, whilst they drank chicha – a fermented drink made by the women. We were able to interact with the Huaorani people, asking questions through our interpreters and playing with the children and their pet monkeys. All the Huaorani have smiles on their faces and it seems that the relative simplicity of their lives, compared to what we know in the Westernised world, may be the reason for this. There is innocence about the Huaorani and I feel privileged to have met some of them.


We took the leisurely route back to the lodge by quilla where, after dinner, we collapsed into our beds knowing we had to be up at 5am for a long journey to the Huaorani community of Nenquepare. The quietness of the quilla journey (which was essentially punted by our guide Eme and his assistant Yeme) presents an excellent chance of spotting wildlife, or at the very least hearing the different noises of birds, such as toucans and howler monkeys. The Huaorani are very good at impersonating the sounds of the animals and birds, which is a skill they used to help them when hunting for the community. It was also nice to listen to Eme and Yeme talk in Huao. Their language is like nothing else I have heard before and sounds a little bit like they are not quite finishing their words or sentences.

After lunch we went on a small walk through the jungle, slipping and sliding a little in the mud and on wet leaves, before using a rope to descend to the base of a beautiful waterfall for a swim in the water with Eme, Yeme (Eme’s assistant), our translator/guide Xavier and two of Yeme’s grandchildren, who skipped and ran barefoot through the jungle, on incredibly light feet without falling once, unlike me! We shared some biscuits with the Huaorani just before dinner and then after another good meal, tired from the early rise, we put our heads to rest in the tent, to the sound of the Huaorani talking to each other.


During the night, there had been heavy rainfall, so I was glad that our tents were pitched on raised, covered platforms. However, it meant that not only had our clothes and towels not dried, they were wetter than when we had hung them up the night before, despite being under cover. After omlettes for breakfast, damp clothes and towels were packed into our rucksacks, as we said farewell “Waponi” to the Huaorani at Nenquepare and embarked upon our journey back to Quito.

As the weather had dried up, we opted to go in the peaceful quilla, rather than on the engine powered canoe. Our translator/guide Xavier and fellow passenger Eduardo opted to have a go and the controls of the quilla, whilst Eme took a rest. We then continued through the rain, as Eme took shelter under one of the leaves cut to make roof repairs to their homes and Xavier pushed his punting pole so firmly into the mud so that it got stuck. After a little reversing we continued on to “the bridge”, where we picked up our four-wheel drive to take us on the penultimate leg to Coca, from where we caught our flight back to Quito.

The journey to Coca showed us a very different rainforest landscape - that of an area destroyed by deforestation as a result of the arrival of the oil giants into the Amazon. These are areas that are home to other indigenous rainforest tribes and the difference was stark. It brought home how important the Huaorani Eco Lodge is as a project to help the Huaorani people maintain a way of life that protects the rainforest and their home. These few days were extraordinary and provided many memories to treasure.

Call 020 7873 5000 to discuss a Tailor-Made holiday to Ecuador's Amazon.

Georgia

Europe Tour Consultant Cecilia Ban recently travelled to Georgia and discovered a vibrant, art-loving country with a diverse and fascinating history and culture, and little evidence of the recent conflict.

As I was preparing for my visit to Georgia I heard that some additional peacekeepers had landed in South Ossetia just two days before my arrival. I expected to see Georgian or EU military trucks and at least a number of soldiers. However, when I arrived at Tbilisi there was no sign of the recent military conflict. None of the houses or the roads have been effected and the locals were sitting at the squares sipping Turkish coffee and smoking cigarettes. One of the first things I learned about Georgian people is that they like to enjoy life and never stop smiling.

Georgia has always fascinated me as a country as it has a very distinct and unique cultural identity within the region. For example the Georgian language (called kartuli) has no connection to any other languages linguistically and it has its own alphabet. Georgians even have their own brand of orthodox chrisitianity, which does not belong to the Slavic or to any of the main Orthodox Churches. Still, the cultural richness of the country is felt and represented by the various buildings of foreign influence in Tbilisi: along the Georgian you will see Armenian and Russian churches and even a mosque. Tbilisi used to be the end of the Silk Road, Arab spa houses and spices from Asia have all contributed to the full taste of Georgian life.

I spent my first day in and around Tbilisi. Surrounded by the Caucasus Mountains, the capital of Georgia is a compact city of 1,000,000 inhabitants. You can get to most places within 5 minutes by car and it takes less than 30 minutes to reach any sights on foot. Fortunately, it is one of the relatively few former Soviet cities in which the old town remains intact. There is a distinct district of cobbled streets and medieval houses with wooden balconies, contrasting with buildings from the seventies in other parts of the town.

On my second and third day I visited some of the sights of Stephantsminda and the Kakheti area. The highlight of my tour was definitely Signagi in Kakheti, a town of traditional houses from the 18th century and with views overlooking the Alazani Valley at least one thousand feet below. Signagi is best known for its wine and carpets, but it also has a local museum. It is a town to stroll around, to have dinner perhaps on a balcony while enjoying the view of the valley and the magnificient mountains in the far distance.

I have always been fascinated by Georgia, and visiting it for the first time was not a letdown. People go to coffee houses and value art, and there is a vibrant theatre life in Georgia, it has also a Mediterranean and European feeling to it. On my last evening I was invited to an opening of a museum which was hosted in an old chateau in Tsinandali. It turned out that I was invited to a classical concert given by some of the most famous musicians of the country. Guests included ambassadors, members of the royal family and the President of Georgia. The atmosphere made me feel like royalty myself and the concert was fantastic, it was an invaluable way to understand how Georgians feel and experience life. It is one of the very few countries I know I will have to go back to, the warmth and hospitality of the Georgians was fantastic.

Visit Georgia on the 8-night Wonders of Armenia & Georgia tour, which starts from £1895 per person, or call 020 7873 5006 to discuss tailor-made options to Georgia.

Valparaiso: Chile's Cultural Capital

Latin America Tour Counsultant Katie Parsons recently travelled to Chile and spent some time exploring the coasal city of Valparaiso.

After a long flight from London to Santiago, via Madrid, most people want a comfortable hotel in the city, just 20 minutes from the airport to relax in for the afternoon. As Chile is so long, with the highlights of the north and south so far apart, it is impossible to avoid taking several domestic flights, which inevitably results in revisiting Santiago as flight schedules rarely coincide. Latin America Tour Consultant Katie Parsons recently discovered a good alternative is to stay in Valparaiso, just 50 minutes from Santiago airport.

Valpo, as is called by its residents, is like no other city in Chile. It has a unique charm that can be likened to the colourful, aluminium-framed houses of the La Boca district of Buenos Aires, or a mix of the small, narrow streets of Lisbon with the rundown allure of Havana. Despite being a popular port of call for cruise ships, the city was virtually overlooked by those on board as it was seen as the point of access to Santiago, which is just one hour away. However, since being named a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2003, the fortunes of this distinctive city have started to change. Many small boutique hotels have opened, attempting to entice people away from the more glamorous neighbourhood of Viña del Mar, the beach playground of the wealthy Chileans.

Valpo is effectively two cities rolled into one: the less inspiring flat shopping and business district of El Plan near the port; and the winding labyrinth of rambling streets and alleyways, with the colourful houses made from corrugated iron that sit perched on the edge of the many cerros or hills rising precariously above. Each cerro has its own unique identity but it is Cerro Alegre and Concepción that attract the most visitors with their very individual and bohemian style.

The best way of exploring the hillside is by way of the 15 different ascensores, funicular-type lifts built between 1883 and 1916. The oldest of these is Ascensor Concepción which climbs to Cerro Concepción from where you can wander for hours along picturesque street passageways, past photogenic houses and climb seemingly never-ending staircases up to the higher cerro. The Nobel Prize winning poet Pablo Neruda had one of his three houses, La Sebastiana, on Cerro Bellavista, which showcases Neruda’s eccentric style and is filled from the basement to the crows-nest-like attic with quirky items collected on his extensive travels.

On a quiet residential street in Cerro Alegre, Hotel Zero is the perfect place to relax, either for a couple of nights after the long flight from London, or at the end of a tour of Chile before going home. Walking down the street you would miss it if you didn’t know it was there, but once inside, a beautiful converted house opens up in front of you, providing an instantly calming and relaxing atmosphere. The high ceilings and huge windows shower the rooms with light and if you have a room at the back of the house, from the exquisite beds there is a view across the bay and to the port far below. A similar view is afforded from the hidden sun terraces or panoramic winter terrace where breakfast and the Saturday brunch are served. Reflected in the hotel’s honesty bar, the very friendly owners and managers have successfully created a true, relaxed home-from-home gem, which makes you very reluctant to leave.

For Tailor-Made options in Chile including Valparaiso call 020 7873 5000 to speak to one of our expert Tour Consultants, or browse our Chile tours here.

Iran in Photos

Middle East Tour Consultant Christopher Bradford recently travelled to Iran and found a welcoming country bursting with sights. He compiled a photo-journal below.

Iran may not be first on everyone's list of potential holiday destinations, but it is one of the safest and most welcoming countries I have ever visited, and offers a huge array of impressive sights. The awesome Persepolis is a must-see, as is the stunning Islamic architecture of Isfahan (above). An added bonus is that there are few other tourists around, allowing you to explore the country's 8 Unesco World Heritage sights in relative isolation.

Taba-Tabei Merchant House, Kashan

Kashan is situated between Isfahan and Tehran and is full of exquisitely restored traditional merchant homes such as the one below.

Dome, Isfahan

The pattern on the dome of Shah Isfahan Mosque also appears on traditional Isfahani carpets, many of which can be found in the city’s souks.

Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Isfahan

Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque in Isfahan is the most fabulous mosque in Iran. The walls are covered in intricate carvings.

Khaju Bridge, Isfahan

The Khaju Bridge in Isfahan is a typical Umayyad bridge and is one of the city’s main meeting points.

Persian Art, Iran

Iran is full of fine examples of Persian Art such as the above

Souqs of Isfahan

Isfahan souq is particularly bustling in the evenings but quieter during in the day. Iran’s souqs are friendly and safe, and are great places to pick up pistachio nuts and saffron

Vank Cathedral

Isfahan has around 7000 christians in its Armenian Quarter. The fresco on the left can be found in Vank Cathedral. Vank Cathedral was one of the first churches to be established in the city by Armenian immigrants who arrived following the Ottoman war of 1603 - 1605.

Persepolis

Persepolis is close to Shiraz and is famous for its bas reliefs. Work on the site began under Darius I in 518 BC.

Nagsh-e-Rostam

Nagsh-e-Rostam is a series of tombs hewn into the cliffs, almost like a mini Petra. Darius I and II are thought to be buried there.

The 8-night group tour of Iran Treasures of Persia, starts from £1517 per person.

Compass Magazine Photo Competition

This month we have received a number of excellent entries for our photo competition.

The winner will be announced in May's Compass Magazine, but here is a selection of some of the entries:

Bacino di San Marco, Venice (Chris Mole)












Orthodox Monk, Ethiopia (Neil Halliday)















Anglers on the Bosphorus, Istanbul (Chris Mole)

Machu Picchu, Peru (Dennis Jeffrey)

Children en-route to Feynan, Jordan (Hilary Wood)






















Cox & Kings Guide Kunta, Timbuktou (Heward Simpson)

























Khajoo Bridge, Esfahan, Iran (June Kashio)


















Picnic at Samode Palace, Jaipur (Jeff Raynes)

















Picking Cotton, Tashkent, Uzbekistan (Peter Cope)

















Chinatown Temple, Singapore (Chris Mole)















Galapagos Frigatebird (Claire Cockcroft)

Wonders of Egypt

On 1st March Middle East Consultant Katie Parsons accompanied a group of travel agents to Egypt following the Wonders of Egypt itinerary and is still overwhelmed by what the country has to offer.




Having recently visited the Tutankhamen exhibition at London’s O2 centre, I wasn't expecting to be as surpised and amazed as I was on my first visit to Egypt. The country is a vast open-air museum and each day felt like we were venturing into the next room.

Opening the bedroom curtains at the first hotel we stayed at (Le Meridien Pyramids) to a full view of the pyramids was breath-taking, but for me the sights just got better and it was only a hint of what was to come. Cairo is an incredible city and the one day we spent there was not enough. What could have been a 45-minute drive at midnight to get from the airport to the hotel took almost 2 hours due to a traffic jam at 1am. Cairo’s traffic problem really does have to be seen to be believed.

For many people, visiting Cairo is only a day trip to see the Pyramids and Sphinx but no stay in Egypt is complete without seeing the Egyptian Museum. The obvious highlight of the museum is the room filled with the treasures from the tomb of Tutankhamen. Even though some of the artefacts are part of the touring exhibition, there are plenty more outstanding pieces still in Cairo as only items that are part of a set are allowed to leave Egypt. However, everything in the museum is so well preserved and the colours and carvings still so clear, that it is very hard to decide on a favourite exhibit. It’s definitely worth paying the additional fee to go into the Mummies Room just to see how preserved and intact they are.

Due to the sheer volume of places to see, Egypt is definitely a country where the only possible way to do it justice is with an Egyptologist. Our expert guide, Hany, was brilliant and explained everything to a very novice group but kept us all enthused throughout the week.

The main feature of the itinerary is a 4-night cruise on the Mirage from Luxor to Aswan. The city of Luxor has a completely different and much more relaxed feel to the busy capital; date palms line the banks of the Nile and the valley is lush and green. After an early morning flight from Cairo, the first stop was a visit to Luxor’s West Bank sites: the Colossi of Memnon, the Temple of Hatshepsut, and the Valley of the Kings. The hieroglyphics inside the tombs and on the walls and columns of the temples are fantastic and provide an incredible insight into the Ancient Egyptians beliefs and way of life. Since the tombs of the West Bank are hidden underground, the East Bank temples of Luxor and Karnak are far more structurally impressive.

Less than 10 minutes north of Luxor town centre, Karnak is a photographer’s dream and my personal favourite of all we visited. The columns and carvings are so impressive and listening to Hany translating the hieroglyphs and cartouches was fascinating and certainly far more informative than my trusted Rough Guide or Lonely Planet.

There are more than 200 boats of varying quality and size that cruise between Luxor and Aswan, offering 3, 4, 6 and 7-night cruises. The Mirage is a good 5-star boat and has all the facilities anyone could need, including a small swimming pool and shaded sundeck. There are other even more luxurious boats such as the new Oberoi Zahra, which has its own on-board spa, but the Mirage is a modern, clean boat and serves excellent food, which has a great atmosphere that is great for groups.

At the port in Luxor, I hadn’t really considered that there would be so many boats and I did fear that what looked like a vast car park of cruise boats moored up, would result in traffic jams along the river. But partly due to the fact the Mirage is one of the faster boats on the Nile, and mainly because the boats have to queue up to get through Esna lock two at a time, on the free afternoon once we had navigated through the lock and continued on the way to Edfu, it felt as if we had the Nile to ourselves. Whilst moored up at Esna waiting in the queue, we spent an entertaining few hours on the top deck of the boat bartering with locals in their rowing boats for their handicrafts, which they would throw up to us on the deck to look at and then when a deal was agreed, we would drop the money back down in a small bag, inevitably landing in the water! Whilst the East and West Banks tell the story of the Egypt of the past, cruising down the Nile gives a glimpse into the daily life of the Egyptians of today. Small farms and villages are scattered along the river’s fertile valley and cattle, donkeys and camels graze the banks as the cruise boats sail by and watching the way of life of the rural Egyptians it’s as if time has stood still and tourists are transported back 2000 years.

Early in the morning on the last day of the cruise we flew from Aswan to Abu Simbel, to see the famous temples of Ramses II and his queen, Nefetari. Not only is it the sheer size of the statues at Abu Simbel that has made the temples a must-see on any visit to Egypt, but it is also the enormity of the feat of engineering that was undertaken in the 1960s that propelled it to world-fame. The enormous task involved cutting the monument by hand into more than 1000 blocks and rebuilding the entire structure 210m behind, and 61m above the original site. This controversial undertaking successfully saved the monument from the rising waters of Lake Nasser with the construction of the Aswan High Dam and even with close inspection, it is virtually impossible to notice any sign of the temple being cut.

For those who don’t want to sleep in a floating hotel, you can go by road, in a convoy between Luxor and Aswan, stopping at the temples on the way, but a Nile cruise offers the perfect way to see life from the Nile as it was for the Ancient Egyptians. And nothing can quite beat sipping a gin and tonic from the sundeck watching the sun set after a day of exploring tombs and temples.

The 7-night Wonders of Egypt tour starts from £1005 per person, including international flights, accommodation with breakfast and full board on the cruise, guided excursions and transfers. Click here to view Cox & Kings' range of Egypt tours.