Compass Magazine Photo Competition

This month we have received a number of excellent entries for our photo competition.

The winner will be announced in May's Compass Magazine, but here is a selection of some of the entries:

Bacino di San Marco, Venice (Chris Mole)












Orthodox Monk, Ethiopia (Neil Halliday)















Anglers on the Bosphorus, Istanbul (Chris Mole)

Machu Picchu, Peru (Dennis Jeffrey)

Children en-route to Feynan, Jordan (Hilary Wood)






















Cox & Kings Guide Kunta, Timbuktou (Heward Simpson)

























Khajoo Bridge, Esfahan, Iran (June Kashio)


















Picnic at Samode Palace, Jaipur (Jeff Raynes)

















Picking Cotton, Tashkent, Uzbekistan (Peter Cope)

















Chinatown Temple, Singapore (Chris Mole)















Galapagos Frigatebird (Claire Cockcroft)

Wonders of Egypt

On 1st March Middle East Consultant Katie Parsons accompanied a group of travel agents to Egypt following the Wonders of Egypt itinerary and is still overwhelmed by what the country has to offer.




Having recently visited the Tutankhamen exhibition at London’s O2 centre, I wasn't expecting to be as surpised and amazed as I was on my first visit to Egypt. The country is a vast open-air museum and each day felt like we were venturing into the next room.

Opening the bedroom curtains at the first hotel we stayed at (Le Meridien Pyramids) to a full view of the pyramids was breath-taking, but for me the sights just got better and it was only a hint of what was to come. Cairo is an incredible city and the one day we spent there was not enough. What could have been a 45-minute drive at midnight to get from the airport to the hotel took almost 2 hours due to a traffic jam at 1am. Cairo’s traffic problem really does have to be seen to be believed.

For many people, visiting Cairo is only a day trip to see the Pyramids and Sphinx but no stay in Egypt is complete without seeing the Egyptian Museum. The obvious highlight of the museum is the room filled with the treasures from the tomb of Tutankhamen. Even though some of the artefacts are part of the touring exhibition, there are plenty more outstanding pieces still in Cairo as only items that are part of a set are allowed to leave Egypt. However, everything in the museum is so well preserved and the colours and carvings still so clear, that it is very hard to decide on a favourite exhibit. It’s definitely worth paying the additional fee to go into the Mummies Room just to see how preserved and intact they are.

Due to the sheer volume of places to see, Egypt is definitely a country where the only possible way to do it justice is with an Egyptologist. Our expert guide, Hany, was brilliant and explained everything to a very novice group but kept us all enthused throughout the week.

The main feature of the itinerary is a 4-night cruise on the Mirage from Luxor to Aswan. The city of Luxor has a completely different and much more relaxed feel to the busy capital; date palms line the banks of the Nile and the valley is lush and green. After an early morning flight from Cairo, the first stop was a visit to Luxor’s West Bank sites: the Colossi of Memnon, the Temple of Hatshepsut, and the Valley of the Kings. The hieroglyphics inside the tombs and on the walls and columns of the temples are fantastic and provide an incredible insight into the Ancient Egyptians beliefs and way of life. Since the tombs of the West Bank are hidden underground, the East Bank temples of Luxor and Karnak are far more structurally impressive.

Less than 10 minutes north of Luxor town centre, Karnak is a photographer’s dream and my personal favourite of all we visited. The columns and carvings are so impressive and listening to Hany translating the hieroglyphs and cartouches was fascinating and certainly far more informative than my trusted Rough Guide or Lonely Planet.

There are more than 200 boats of varying quality and size that cruise between Luxor and Aswan, offering 3, 4, 6 and 7-night cruises. The Mirage is a good 5-star boat and has all the facilities anyone could need, including a small swimming pool and shaded sundeck. There are other even more luxurious boats such as the new Oberoi Zahra, which has its own on-board spa, but the Mirage is a modern, clean boat and serves excellent food, which has a great atmosphere that is great for groups.

At the port in Luxor, I hadn’t really considered that there would be so many boats and I did fear that what looked like a vast car park of cruise boats moored up, would result in traffic jams along the river. But partly due to the fact the Mirage is one of the faster boats on the Nile, and mainly because the boats have to queue up to get through Esna lock two at a time, on the free afternoon once we had navigated through the lock and continued on the way to Edfu, it felt as if we had the Nile to ourselves. Whilst moored up at Esna waiting in the queue, we spent an entertaining few hours on the top deck of the boat bartering with locals in their rowing boats for their handicrafts, which they would throw up to us on the deck to look at and then when a deal was agreed, we would drop the money back down in a small bag, inevitably landing in the water! Whilst the East and West Banks tell the story of the Egypt of the past, cruising down the Nile gives a glimpse into the daily life of the Egyptians of today. Small farms and villages are scattered along the river’s fertile valley and cattle, donkeys and camels graze the banks as the cruise boats sail by and watching the way of life of the rural Egyptians it’s as if time has stood still and tourists are transported back 2000 years.

Early in the morning on the last day of the cruise we flew from Aswan to Abu Simbel, to see the famous temples of Ramses II and his queen, Nefetari. Not only is it the sheer size of the statues at Abu Simbel that has made the temples a must-see on any visit to Egypt, but it is also the enormity of the feat of engineering that was undertaken in the 1960s that propelled it to world-fame. The enormous task involved cutting the monument by hand into more than 1000 blocks and rebuilding the entire structure 210m behind, and 61m above the original site. This controversial undertaking successfully saved the monument from the rising waters of Lake Nasser with the construction of the Aswan High Dam and even with close inspection, it is virtually impossible to notice any sign of the temple being cut.

For those who don’t want to sleep in a floating hotel, you can go by road, in a convoy between Luxor and Aswan, stopping at the temples on the way, but a Nile cruise offers the perfect way to see life from the Nile as it was for the Ancient Egyptians. And nothing can quite beat sipping a gin and tonic from the sundeck watching the sun set after a day of exploring tombs and temples.

The 7-night Wonders of Egypt tour starts from £1005 per person, including international flights, accommodation with breakfast and full board on the cruise, guided excursions and transfers. Click here to view Cox & Kings' range of Egypt tours.

The South Luangwa Valley: Zambia's Pot of Gold

The South Luangwa Valley (known locally as ‘The Valley’) in Zambia is one of Cox & Kings' fastest growing destinations. Previously overlooked, Africa Product Manager Louise Stanion (bottom right) explains what makes the area so exceptional.

The skies darkened ominously. The leaves on the trees were illuminated brightly against the black backdrop. A stillness in the air preceded a strong gust of wind and the first rumble of thunder sounded. The rainbow, which was weak and broken before, turned into a complete semi-circle of bright colour, similar to the sort you would see in a children’s drawing book. It was then that the elephants decided to step across the orange, dirt track. The matriarch first, followed by the younger ones. In slow, pre-historic motion they moved under the rainbow’s end and quietly disappeared into the bush beyond.

Bertrame, my trusted driver and guide, ran to the back of the van, hooting with laughter. The thunder was banging, the lightening was crashing and the heavens were emptying very wet rain onto us. I was too busy catching the rainbow spectacle on film as he held a poncho over my head.

Next we were hurtling through the bush trying to make it to our nearest hope of cover, Chichele Presidential Lodge, the former holiday retreat of President Kenneth Kaunda (or KK as he is locally known). The skies continued with their dramatic display, the trees being periodically lit up by the lightening, as we drove. I stuck my camera under my fleece and blinked the water away from my eyes. The scene was too spectacular, too exhilarating to miss.

Chichele Presidential Lodge was built in 1960 and has an elevated hilltop location giving it the best sweeping view of any lodge in the South Luangwa National Park. It is beautifully colonial with an impressive arched entrance. As our 4x4 drew up, I looked through to the terrace and saw polished floors, brass fans, hanging lanterns and a grand piano. I wondered how our sodden state would be received but in the true tradition of ‘The Valley’ we were welcomed with open arms and giggles. It turned out that Suku, the lodge manager, had previously worked with Bertram at Robin Pope Safaris. We were clearly in good hands as I was handed a complete change of warm, dry safari gear. Bertram immediately set about arranging our sun downer drinks and snacks on the Chichele terrace. The rain had passed and we were soon enjoying the view and recounting the day's adventure to the other guests.

This was my second visit in 5 years to the South Luangwa National Park. October 2004 found me ‘bush camping’ between two of Robin Popes Safaris most established camps, Nsefu and Tena Tena. At this time of year the heat was high and the trees had lost many of their leaves making the game viewing outstanding. ‘Bush camping’ is a fantastic way to go deeper into the bush. For anyone serious about walking, June to October is the best time to visit as the land is dry enough to open up to walkers.

My most recent visit, March 2008, was during the so-called ‘emerald’ season. Game viewing at this time of year is a whole different ball game but equally thrilling. ‘Emerald’ is a Sanskrit word meaning ‘green’. The view from the 20-seater plane as we landed at Mfuwe Airport confirmed to me the appropriateness of this label. The scene was a far cry from the dusty, brown images usually conjured up when the words African Safari are mentioned.


March and the ‘emerald season’ brings with it wonderfully colourful migrant birds as well as providing a brilliant chance of seeing wild dog (from mid-February to mid-March). I experienced 7 different wild dog sightings of 3 different packs. Game viewing is excellent as many of the lagoons are full so animals gravitate towards the higher ground. Lions as well as wild dog are often seen walking on the roads.

I started my trip as a guest of Norman Carr Safaris who have Kapani as their main safari lodge, plus four individually designed bush camps. Norman (1912 – 1997) first pioneered Zambian walking safaris in the 1950’s and his legacy is Norman Carr Safaris where conservation and care of the local community remain a priority.

I was met by my guide Abraham (left). Quietly spoken and with over 15 years bush experience, Abraham is charming and infectiously enthusiastic about nature. Abraham also has the nose of a professional who knows the area like the back of his hand.

Within 24 hours of setting our 4x4 wheels into the South Luangwa National Park we had seen all of the following scenes:

From Kapani we travelled two hours by boat upstream to Mchenja, the only bushcamp in the South Luangwa to stay open during the ‘emerald’ season. Access during this time is by boat only and although short walks can be done, the majority of game viewing is done from the water. It is a serene and peaceful experience to watch wildlife from a boat. We saw lions lazing on the bank, elephants swimming, crocodiles sprinting into the water, hippos yawning and spectacular cloud formations, especially at sunset.

Mchenja Camp is situated right on the banks of the Luangwa River. It is a small, intimate camp with just 5 very stylish tents, each one under its own thatched roof. There is an outdoor shower and a large stand-alone bathtub. There is a small pool alongside the bar within the thatched main chitenje, allowing guests to seek cool refuge during the heat of the day. During the ‘emerald season’ it makes an excellent combination with Robin Pope Safari’s Nkwali Camp (ask one of our Africa specialists about the 7-night ‘Rivers & Rainbows' package), the last stop on my visit.


The big bonus of this camp is its brilliant access to the South Luangwa National Park. During the dry season it is possible to walk across the dry riverbed and into the park itself. Elephants regularly make the same journey and often come to the waterhole near the thatched dining room. This can be seen, in comfort, from the bar! During the ‘emerald season’ a boat can be taken from just below the bar straight to a land rover waiting on the other side of the river in the park.


During my stay I was fortunate enough to be adopted onto a David Rogers Photographic Safari for a couple of days. A keen amateur, often lucky in terms of ‘right place, right time’ but with little technical know-how, I was well aware of my lack of expertise. However, David’s easy going approach to photography and passion for African wildlife and landscapes immediately relaxed everybody. It very soon became clear why David travels to this area during the ‘emerald season’. The occasional sharp, short and dramatic downpour settles the dust. The spectacular skies and clouds produce an excellent light for photographing the animals. Another extra plus is that the green vegetation makes for some colourful and unusual images.


With just 6 people in the group, everyone is able to benefit from David’s expertise, whether they have a point and shoot or a snazzy SLR. I learnt about the ‘rule of thirds’ when it comes to composition and ‘panning’, a technique that involves moving the camera with the subject so
that it appears sharp against a streaking, blurred background. I soon found myself clicking away with interest and ease.

The evenings, on a specialist safari such as this, were also fun. After supper each person showed his or her best 5 pictures of the day. Sitting on the Nkwali deck, sipping herbal tea (gin & tonic for some) and watching the big screen playing back the adventures of the day was, in my book, unbeatable!

The South Luangwa Park is not just about animals. What impressed me most about our safari partners in this area (Norman Carr Safaris and Robin Pope Safaris) is that the local community is integral to the smooth running of the operation. It is Zambian guides who are likely to take you on your game drives, trained up over 20 years or more to an excellent standard. Both operators actively support a local school (Yosefe and Kawaza Schools) and both use Tribal Textiles (beautiful individually painted cotton fabrics, this company employs 150 local people and fund-raises for the local community school, Malimba, educating over 160 children) to kit out the interiors of their camps. This area has the feel of everyone working together rather than in competition. A visit to one of the schools and to Tribal Textiles is ‘must-do’ of any trip to ‘The Valley’.

Access to the South Luangwa is quick and seamless. A 10-hour direct Overnight flight into Lusaka, followed by a short 2-hour hop in a 20-seater Aircraft and a 40-minute drive to either Kapani or Nkwali.

Zambian smiles will greet you and remain by your side throughout your stay. The hospitality I found here was second to none. Each individual’s needs, how ever quirky, were catered for with good humour. You can’t help but come away a happier person for the experience.

The only challenge that remains is how to maintain this level of contentment in the South-East of England commuter belt!

Cox & Kings offers a 7-night Robin Pope safari in Zambia from £2737 per person and can also arrange tailor-made tours throughout the region. Call 020 7873 5000 to speak to one of our expert Africa consultants.

Syria: On The Up

Syria is one of Cox & Kings' fastest growing destinations. Online Marketing Manager Michael Pullman recently visited and discovered why more and more travellers are returning to the country.


Syria seems to suffer from a serious image problem. Of course being branded one of the "axis of evil" by George Bush doesn't help, but I was still surprised by the general reaction when I spoke about my forthcoming trip. Most people reacted like I was taking my life into my own hands. This infuriated me, because the people I know who have been to Syria, from Cox & Kings clients to colleagues and friends, have all said the same thing: Syria is a friendly, welcoming country where one generally feels safer than in London.


Syria is a poor country - unlike many of its neighbours it is not blessed with natural resources (although it is more than blessed with things to see), so tourism is important to the economy. Thankfully there are plenty of broad-minded travellers willing to give Syria a chance, and as a result tourism is on the up. In fact it doesn't take one long to realise why visitors are returning to Syria. Here are a few reasons which soon became apparent to me:

- With few other tourists you can explore the stunning sights, such as the amazing Roman City of Palmyra, in relative isolation

- It's a relaxed country: Locals wear headscarves rather than burqas and there is no need for tourists to cover up beyond wearing respectful clothing

- You can get a beer or drink some excellent Lebanese wine in a lot of the restaurants in Syria (the food is also fantastic)

- Did I mention that Syria is safe and welcoming?

Her Husband's to Aleppo Gone
So wrote Shakespeare in Macbeth, at a time when Aleppo was a cosmopolitan city at the crossroads of the great caravan routes. I had decided to travel to Syria by train from Istanbul to Aleppo (see the excellent Seat 61 website for more information). I arrived in Syria's second city after a 36-hour journey on board the comfortable but basic Taurus Express, which offers clean twin-berth sleeper cabins but unfortunately no restaurant car. Crossing the border into Syria I was immediately struck by how lush and green the country was, as we passed rows and rows of olive trees. I had just 4 nights in Syria, but the roads are good and you can do a lot in a short space of time. The highlights for me were:

The Baron Hotel
I didn't spend much time in Aleppo as the train was delayed by 6 hours, meaning I had just an evening there. I stayed at the wonderful Baron Hotel, which has had some distinguished guests in the past including Ataturk, Agatha Christie, T.E. Lawrence and Charles Lindbergh. As you can tell from that list the Baron's best years were quite some time ago, and looking around the hotel it seems the place may not have been decorated since, but the rooms are clean and the Baron Hotel has a unique charm and atmosphere.

Krak des Chevaliers
On my second day in Syria I travelled to Krak des Chevaliers, an imposing crusader castle in a stunning location offering views for miles around. Krak is well worth a visit, it is one of the world's most famous castles, three stories high with impressive walls up to eighty feet thick in some places.



Palmyra
Palmyra, an oasis city in the heart of the Syrian desert, has some of the world's most impressive Roman remains. After Krak I arrived at Palmyra just in time to see the sun setting over the ruins, a great spectacle when viewed from the hill-fort (left) as the sun turns into a small red ball and the landscape glows orange. The following day I spent more time exploring the site. Wandering between the enormous columns and fallen bits of intricately carved stone, history really comes alive here. The fact that there are so few other tourists adds to the enjoyment. It was definitely one of the most impressive sights I have visited.

The Souqs of Damascus
After Palmyra I spent two nights in Damascus, which is about a three-hour drive from Palmyra. Damascus is a safe, lively city, and is considered by some to be the oldest continually inhabited city in the world. The highlights of Damascus are the Umayyad Mosque and the lively souqs which are excellent for souvenirs, particularly jewellery.

The Syrian People
Wandering around Damascus you will be asked where you come from, and when you reply the response is always the same: "Welcome to Syria". Syria used to make an excellent combination with Lebanon, another country blessed with a variety of splendid sights, which unfortunately is currently on the FCO only-essential-travel list. In the meantime, don't believe the nonsense you may read in the newspapers: Syria is a safe, warm, welcoming country with more than enough to see and do to justify a six-hour flight, or a 30-hour train journey.

Cox & Kings offers shorts breaks in Damascus staying at the Talisman Hotel from £995 per person including flights. The 8-night Journey to Palmyra group tour starts from £1117 and visits Damascus, Aleppo, Krak des Chevaliers and Palmyra, and can also be taken individually as a private journey. Cox & Kings offers a combined tour of Syria and Jordan, and can also arrange trips aboard the Taurus Express from Istanbul to Aleppo. Call 020 7873 5000 for details.

Long Weekend in Moscow

Quality Control Executive Heather Fitsell recently travelled to Moscow with Cox & Kings.

A sprinkling of snow greeted our arrival in Moscow on a mild Russian winter's evening in February. As Saturday was a public holiday in Russia ‘Man’s Day’ (the equivalent of Father’s Day), red, white and blue lights representing the colours of Russia’s flag had been strung up along the city’s bridges adding to its visual charm. Tradition dictates that on this day the women give a small gift to the men, this tradition is of course returned later in the year with ‘Women’s Day’.

We arrived at our hotel the Marriott Courtyard Hotel, which is situated on a quiet street, just a short walk from Red Square, the Kremlin and Saint Basil’s Cathedral, and has a lovely large and light atrium lobby.


After a fine meal in the hotel’s Flat Iron Bar and Roadhouse restaurant, we took a walk to Red Square to see the famous sights by night, and how beautiful they were. Impressive buildings surround the whole square, but the highlight for me was undoubtedly Saint Basil’s Cathedral. It looked like the grand participant amongst a carnival parade of buildings, showing off its full glory.

Arising from a good night's sleep, we embarked upon our city tour with our fantastic guide Eduard, whose dry sense of humour had us all laughing - “Make sure you are back at the coach in seven and a half minutes!”

Our tour took in the Izmailovo flea market, which sprawls over a large area and is full of individual stalls selling souvenirs and everyday goods. The perfect place to buy your matryoshka (Russian nesting dolls) or some Soviet-era paraphernalia; you will also see an array of fur hats and animal skins ranging from bear to fox, which are used to make the hats and coats in Russia. Bartering is allowed, but do not expect too much leeway, it is easy to spot a tourist. Make sure you look up at the tops of the market stalls and buildings, which are in their own right quite pretty.

Passing the Space Obelisk, we headed back towards the centre of Moscow for our Metro tour.


The Moscow Metro is the number one way for Russians to get around the city, so sightseeing its many spectacular stations is best avoided in rush hour, as 9 million people head to or from work. A tour is nonetheless highly recommended, particularly for those who have ever experienced the London Underground.

Moscow’s Metro has to be seen to be believed. We visited three stations; Kievskaya with its superbly shiny interior and mosaics depicting Ukrainian history and Prospekt Mira which has white porcelain bas reliefs showing images of smiling farmers and families. Our final stop was Ploschad Revolyutsii station, which has lifesize bronze statues of some of the admired professions of Russians during communist times, such as miners and soldiers. Make sure you rub the shiny nose of the soldier’s dog to bring you good fortune.

Following a brief rest at our hotel, we headed to the Baltschug Kempinski Hotel situated on the banks of the Moskva River for a tour of the property followed by dinner. The Kempinski was the first five-star hotel to be built in Moscow following the collapse of Communism and the building (which dates back to 1898) has its own colourful history. Its membership of ‘The Leading Hotels of the World’ is justly deserved with large, fresh, modern rooms equipped with all the amenities one would expect, including a large plasma screen television.

Our meal was served in the hotel’s library with what is possibly the most stunning view of St Basil’s Cathedral and the Kremlin in the whole of Moscow (left). We were served a delightful four-course meal, which included a little caviar, truffle soup, lamb that simply melted in our mouths and a selection of cold chocolate mousse desserts. The service was impeccable with an air of military precision, like nothing I have experienced before. This was undoubtedly the highlight for everyone on the trip and a night we will certainly not forget.

The Kempinski had set our expectations high and I was not sure if it would be possible to exceed our wonderful evening, but it was certainly equalled by our tour of the Armoury at the Kremlin on Sunday. As we waited outside in line to go through the security check at the Kremlin our feet started to numb, but as the soft flakes of snow fell around us on our last day in Moscow, no one really cared. Our taster of the Armoury and the Kremlin’s churches and cathedrals was more than enough to make me want to return to Moscow. The Armoury is filled with the beautiful outfits and dresses of the Tsars and their wives, (including Nicholas II and Alexandra), bejewelled thrones and the most stunning horse carriages imagineable. I only wish we had been allowed to take photos of these amazing wares. This was a truly memorable end to a marvellous weekend.

Cox & Kings offers 3 nights in Moscow staying at the Marriott Tverskaya Hotel from £645 per person, including flights, transfers and breakfast daily. 3 nights at the Baltschug Kempinski starts from £945 per person, including flights, transfers and breakfast daily.

Northern Botswana: My Top Ten Wildlife Moments

Africa Tour Consultant Paul Tyler recently travelled to Botswana with Cox & Kings.

During the second half of November last year I had the privilege to travel to a part of the world known for its incredible array of wildlife. From an early age I have had an avid interest in animals, particularly birds, so I knew I was in for a huge treat.

Botswana is a shining light on the African continent having enjoyed continued peace and political stability since it’s independence from Britain in 1966. It is also a very wealthy state; it’s the world’s largest producer of diamonds by value and has stockpiled foreign exchange reserves worth over $7 billion in 2005/2006. It has a population of 1.64 million and it’s other big money spinners are tourism and cattle ranching.

My trip was to focus primarily on the Okavango Delta; I was also to visit the Linyanti, the Savute and the Kwando River concession. I was to stay at 9 different lodges, viewing a further 9.

November is considered the low or "Green Season" in Botswana. Situated in a summer rainfall area (October to March) the bush tends to be rather thick at this time of year making game viewing a little more difficult, however it is also the time when animals are giving birth, the migrant bird species are around and generally the bush is buzzing with life. During the winter months, the bush dies back considerably (virtually no rain falls between late April and early September) making game viewing easier.

The Okavango Delta is a complex wetland system, consisting of oxbow lakes, channels, lagoons and palm dotted islands. The Okavango River is the longest river to not flow into the sea and its delta is the largest inland delta in the world. It begins its journey in the highlands of Angola, flowing southwards for 1600 kilometres, forming the border between Namibia and Angola flowing through the Caprivi Strip and finally into Botswana.

The delta is subject to seasonal flooding. The water levels start rising in March and reach their peak in June/July. During this time the animals are forced onto the islands and game viewing is at it's best. Chief's Island is the largest of these, and is considered by many as the best game viewing spot on the planet.

After 11 days in Botswana I had some magic wildlife moments; here is my top 10 (in no particular order):

1. We were to spend two nights at Duma Tau Camp in the Linyanti. Shortly before we arrived a pride of lions had brought down a giraffe. For the duration of our stay we watched them devour the carcass, during the latter part of our stay the hyenas and vultures moved in, it was fascinating how they interacted with the lions. By the time we left, the bones had been picked clean of any flesh.

Lion are found throughout the Savute, Linyanti and Kwando Concession and are a lot more sporadic in the Delta.

2. My favourite animal is the leopard. I was very fortunate in having two separate sightings of this elusive cat during my stay. The first was a young female (seen near Tubu Tree Camp-on arrival I was told that there had been a leopard under my tent that morning), the second a young male (near Stanley’s Camp), both were in a tree with unobstructed views, stunning...

Leopard are found throughout Northern Botswana and may be encountered anywhere, however due to their skulking habits they are notoriously difficult to find.

3. We were out early one morning in the western part of the delta when we came across a pack of hyena hassling a female giraffe. She was protecting her dead calf, which had been killed by another carnivore, a leopard perhaps which could have been scared off initially by the hyenas or the giraffe. The mother would not allow the hyenas to come close, thrashing out potentially fatal kicks toward the hyenas. Initially there were 4, after a good half hour there were 8, too many for the giraffe to handle, she moved off and within minutes there was nothing left, the vultures didn't even have a sniff.

4. Every so often while on safari you see something that you will probably never see again. I was to stay at Eagle Island Camp for 1 night. On the afternoon of my arrival I was to go on a helicopter trip. To be honest I wasn't all that excited about it, I had been flying between all of the camps, I had already seen the Delta from the air, how different could it be? Within minutes of the flight taking off, I had changed my mind. A helicopter flight gives one a much better view of the ground below, and the pilot removes the side doors affording even better views. We were about 10 minutes into our flight when I saw a herd of impala running at some speed. I though it was a bit odd as we were still quite far from them, and the animals we had seen prior weren't at all alarmed by the aircraft. And then I spotted it; a cheetah was in hot pursuit of the antelope. Eventually it brought down a youngster, it was all over in a matter of seconds, or so we thought. The pilot didn't want to stress the cheetah out, so we continued on our flight. On the way back the pilot thought it would be a good idea to see how "our" cheetah was getting on. It didn't take long to find it again. The little impala had managed to get away and had found refuge in a small waterhole. The cheetah was crouched beside the water, waiting. Eventually it got impatient and darted into the water, the little antelope ran, but was brought down on the waters edge, this time it was game over...Amazing.

Cheetah are found in most areas of Northern Botswana (they also occur in the western and south western areas in fairly large numbers) especially where there are open areas where they use their sheer speed to hunt down their prey.

5. After my helicopter flip I had a few hours to relax before my game drive. I was fortunate to be the only one on the drive that afternoon. I explained to the guide (Sugar) that I had seen lots of game and would really like to focus on birding. I also mentioned that I had been unlucky in my pursuit of the Pel's Fishing Owl. This owl is one of Africa's largest. It is highly prized among birdwatchers as it can be quite tricky to find and it is nowhere common. I had seen one once before along South Africa's Limpopo River, but I wanted to see it again. Sugar said he knew of a place very close by where they often roost. 10 minutes later he stopped the vehicle in the middle of a mature stand of Mangosteen trees, we got out, I looked up and there it was, a Pel's Fishing Owl, brilliant!

The Okavango Delta is one of the easiest places to find this elusive owl, all guides know about it and if they are around they will take you to look for it.

6. Sunsets are a highlight on any safari. After a day of sensational wildlife viewing, there is no better way than to grab a drink and watch the sun go down with your fellow safari companions discussing the day's events. We were doing just this one evening, when we hadn't noticed a small breeding herd of elephant approaching. By the time we had spotted them it was to late for us to get into the vehicle, all our guide said to us was to be still. They casually strolled by as though we weren't even there.

Elephant are common in Botswana and are found throughout the northern region.

7. Lions are still common in many national parks throughout Africa. Having visited the Kruger on numerous occasions I have had many sightings of this magnificent cat. My group and I had just enjoyed a boat trip on one of the largest lagoons in the delta. We were driving back to our camp when our guide spotted two male lions; they were big boys and were behaving in a very skittish manner. We initially lost them, but after a few moments found them, as we appeared they focused their gaze on us. There was something very wild about them. The one guy in particular stared at us very uncomfortably and at one point I thought he was going to make a dash for the vehicle. Eventually they moved off. It seriously got the adrenaline pumping and one of the sightings of the trip.

8. Baboons aren't everyone's favourite but they can be very entertaining. It's a bit like people watching at a busy place, like an airport. On one very hot afternoon we came across a large troop, they were extremely entertaining and kept us captivated for over an hour. Some of the males were particularly fascinating. They were out on a mission; to impress the ladies. Of course the girls were playing hard to get and pretended to ignore the attention they were getting. One of them decided that she would be a tease and climb to the top of a dead shrub. It barely could support her weight so every time the male attempted to reach her he would fall off. He gave up in the end and decided he would wait, it was a wait in vain and he eventually found another female to pester.

9. Wild Dogs are one of the rarest predators in Africa; there are only a few areas where they can still be found. When not breeding they are highly nomadic covering huge distances. In November they start moving, and so can be tricky to find. While staying at Duma Tau in the Linyanti, we had come very close to finding them, so close that we could actually smell they had been around. Following that we had come close but not seen them. It was my second last full day in Botswana and finally after some serious off roading in the Kwando River Concession we found 4 dogs, an alpha male and female along with two pups. Our guide informed us that the rest of the pack had most probably gone hunting. Wild Dogs are highly sociable and packs vary in size from 4 to 20 odd individuals. Only the alpha pair has pups, if another female gives birth, the offspring are killed.

Wild dog are most easily found in the Kwando, Savute and Linyanti areas. They are not common and can be difficult to find.

10. The Birds of Prey. In all I managed to see 22 different species of these magnificent birds, including 11 species of Eagle. It could have been more and on a dedicated bird watching safari you could easily see over 30 species. Because this conservation area is so massive, these birds thrive. Highlights included the Red-necked Falcon, Western Banded Snake Eagle, Dickinson’s Kestrel and Lappet-faced Vulture. The African Fish Eagle is very common in the Okavango and their magnificent call is heard frequently throughout the day.

In addition to the above I also saw Red Lechwe, Hippo, Buffalo, Sitatunga (rare antelope), Kudu, Zebra, Wildebeest, Crocodile, Tsessebe, Caracal, Warthog, Black-backed Jackal, Banded Mongoose and 247 species of bird.

In all I had a very rewarding trip, even though I travelled at the time of year when game viewing is most difficult I still saw a huge variety. If you don’t mind the heat, travel in the Green Season, the light is excellent for photography (no dust), the lodges are largely half full or even empty (twice I was the only occupant in the entire lodge), the wildlife is spectacular and generally the rates are a lot more competitive.

Travel with Cox and Kings on the Great Botswana Safari or alternatively call 020 7873 5000 to speak to one of our Africa experts about tailor-making your holiday in Botswana.