Long Weekend in Moscow

Quality Control Executive Heather Fitsell recently travelled to Moscow with Cox & Kings.

A sprinkling of snow greeted our arrival in Moscow on a mild Russian winter's evening in February. As Saturday was a public holiday in Russia ‘Man’s Day’ (the equivalent of Father’s Day), red, white and blue lights representing the colours of Russia’s flag had been strung up along the city’s bridges adding to its visual charm. Tradition dictates that on this day the women give a small gift to the men, this tradition is of course returned later in the year with ‘Women’s Day’.

We arrived at our hotel the Marriott Courtyard Hotel, which is situated on a quiet street, just a short walk from Red Square, the Kremlin and Saint Basil’s Cathedral, and has a lovely large and light atrium lobby.


After a fine meal in the hotel’s Flat Iron Bar and Roadhouse restaurant, we took a walk to Red Square to see the famous sights by night, and how beautiful they were. Impressive buildings surround the whole square, but the highlight for me was undoubtedly Saint Basil’s Cathedral. It looked like the grand participant amongst a carnival parade of buildings, showing off its full glory.

Arising from a good night's sleep, we embarked upon our city tour with our fantastic guide Eduard, whose dry sense of humour had us all laughing - “Make sure you are back at the coach in seven and a half minutes!”

Our tour took in the Izmailovo flea market, which sprawls over a large area and is full of individual stalls selling souvenirs and everyday goods. The perfect place to buy your matryoshka (Russian nesting dolls) or some Soviet-era paraphernalia; you will also see an array of fur hats and animal skins ranging from bear to fox, which are used to make the hats and coats in Russia. Bartering is allowed, but do not expect too much leeway, it is easy to spot a tourist. Make sure you look up at the tops of the market stalls and buildings, which are in their own right quite pretty.

Passing the Space Obelisk, we headed back towards the centre of Moscow for our Metro tour.


The Moscow Metro is the number one way for Russians to get around the city, so sightseeing its many spectacular stations is best avoided in rush hour, as 9 million people head to or from work. A tour is nonetheless highly recommended, particularly for those who have ever experienced the London Underground.

Moscow’s Metro has to be seen to be believed. We visited three stations; Kievskaya with its superbly shiny interior and mosaics depicting Ukrainian history and Prospekt Mira which has white porcelain bas reliefs showing images of smiling farmers and families. Our final stop was Ploschad Revolyutsii station, which has lifesize bronze statues of some of the admired professions of Russians during communist times, such as miners and soldiers. Make sure you rub the shiny nose of the soldier’s dog to bring you good fortune.

Following a brief rest at our hotel, we headed to the Baltschug Kempinski Hotel situated on the banks of the Moskva River for a tour of the property followed by dinner. The Kempinski was the first five-star hotel to be built in Moscow following the collapse of Communism and the building (which dates back to 1898) has its own colourful history. Its membership of ‘The Leading Hotels of the World’ is justly deserved with large, fresh, modern rooms equipped with all the amenities one would expect, including a large plasma screen television.

Our meal was served in the hotel’s library with what is possibly the most stunning view of St Basil’s Cathedral and the Kremlin in the whole of Moscow (left). We were served a delightful four-course meal, which included a little caviar, truffle soup, lamb that simply melted in our mouths and a selection of cold chocolate mousse desserts. The service was impeccable with an air of military precision, like nothing I have experienced before. This was undoubtedly the highlight for everyone on the trip and a night we will certainly not forget.

The Kempinski had set our expectations high and I was not sure if it would be possible to exceed our wonderful evening, but it was certainly equalled by our tour of the Armoury at the Kremlin on Sunday. As we waited outside in line to go through the security check at the Kremlin our feet started to numb, but as the soft flakes of snow fell around us on our last day in Moscow, no one really cared. Our taster of the Armoury and the Kremlin’s churches and cathedrals was more than enough to make me want to return to Moscow. The Armoury is filled with the beautiful outfits and dresses of the Tsars and their wives, (including Nicholas II and Alexandra), bejewelled thrones and the most stunning horse carriages imagineable. I only wish we had been allowed to take photos of these amazing wares. This was a truly memorable end to a marvellous weekend.

Cox & Kings offers 3 nights in Moscow staying at the Marriott Tverskaya Hotel from £645 per person, including flights, transfers and breakfast daily. 3 nights at the Baltschug Kempinski starts from £945 per person, including flights, transfers and breakfast daily.

Northern Botswana: My Top Ten Wildlife Moments

Africa Tour Consultant Paul Tyler recently travelled to Botswana with Cox & Kings.

During the second half of November last year I had the privilege to travel to a part of the world known for its incredible array of wildlife. From an early age I have had an avid interest in animals, particularly birds, so I knew I was in for a huge treat.

Botswana is a shining light on the African continent having enjoyed continued peace and political stability since it’s independence from Britain in 1966. It is also a very wealthy state; it’s the world’s largest producer of diamonds by value and has stockpiled foreign exchange reserves worth over $7 billion in 2005/2006. It has a population of 1.64 million and it’s other big money spinners are tourism and cattle ranching.

My trip was to focus primarily on the Okavango Delta; I was also to visit the Linyanti, the Savute and the Kwando River concession. I was to stay at 9 different lodges, viewing a further 9.

November is considered the low or "Green Season" in Botswana. Situated in a summer rainfall area (October to March) the bush tends to be rather thick at this time of year making game viewing a little more difficult, however it is also the time when animals are giving birth, the migrant bird species are around and generally the bush is buzzing with life. During the winter months, the bush dies back considerably (virtually no rain falls between late April and early September) making game viewing easier.

The Okavango Delta is a complex wetland system, consisting of oxbow lakes, channels, lagoons and palm dotted islands. The Okavango River is the longest river to not flow into the sea and its delta is the largest inland delta in the world. It begins its journey in the highlands of Angola, flowing southwards for 1600 kilometres, forming the border between Namibia and Angola flowing through the Caprivi Strip and finally into Botswana.

The delta is subject to seasonal flooding. The water levels start rising in March and reach their peak in June/July. During this time the animals are forced onto the islands and game viewing is at it's best. Chief's Island is the largest of these, and is considered by many as the best game viewing spot on the planet.

After 11 days in Botswana I had some magic wildlife moments; here is my top 10 (in no particular order):

1. We were to spend two nights at Duma Tau Camp in the Linyanti. Shortly before we arrived a pride of lions had brought down a giraffe. For the duration of our stay we watched them devour the carcass, during the latter part of our stay the hyenas and vultures moved in, it was fascinating how they interacted with the lions. By the time we left, the bones had been picked clean of any flesh.

Lion are found throughout the Savute, Linyanti and Kwando Concession and are a lot more sporadic in the Delta.

2. My favourite animal is the leopard. I was very fortunate in having two separate sightings of this elusive cat during my stay. The first was a young female (seen near Tubu Tree Camp-on arrival I was told that there had been a leopard under my tent that morning), the second a young male (near Stanley’s Camp), both were in a tree with unobstructed views, stunning...

Leopard are found throughout Northern Botswana and may be encountered anywhere, however due to their skulking habits they are notoriously difficult to find.

3. We were out early one morning in the western part of the delta when we came across a pack of hyena hassling a female giraffe. She was protecting her dead calf, which had been killed by another carnivore, a leopard perhaps which could have been scared off initially by the hyenas or the giraffe. The mother would not allow the hyenas to come close, thrashing out potentially fatal kicks toward the hyenas. Initially there were 4, after a good half hour there were 8, too many for the giraffe to handle, she moved off and within minutes there was nothing left, the vultures didn't even have a sniff.

4. Every so often while on safari you see something that you will probably never see again. I was to stay at Eagle Island Camp for 1 night. On the afternoon of my arrival I was to go on a helicopter trip. To be honest I wasn't all that excited about it, I had been flying between all of the camps, I had already seen the Delta from the air, how different could it be? Within minutes of the flight taking off, I had changed my mind. A helicopter flight gives one a much better view of the ground below, and the pilot removes the side doors affording even better views. We were about 10 minutes into our flight when I saw a herd of impala running at some speed. I though it was a bit odd as we were still quite far from them, and the animals we had seen prior weren't at all alarmed by the aircraft. And then I spotted it; a cheetah was in hot pursuit of the antelope. Eventually it brought down a youngster, it was all over in a matter of seconds, or so we thought. The pilot didn't want to stress the cheetah out, so we continued on our flight. On the way back the pilot thought it would be a good idea to see how "our" cheetah was getting on. It didn't take long to find it again. The little impala had managed to get away and had found refuge in a small waterhole. The cheetah was crouched beside the water, waiting. Eventually it got impatient and darted into the water, the little antelope ran, but was brought down on the waters edge, this time it was game over...Amazing.

Cheetah are found in most areas of Northern Botswana (they also occur in the western and south western areas in fairly large numbers) especially where there are open areas where they use their sheer speed to hunt down their prey.

5. After my helicopter flip I had a few hours to relax before my game drive. I was fortunate to be the only one on the drive that afternoon. I explained to the guide (Sugar) that I had seen lots of game and would really like to focus on birding. I also mentioned that I had been unlucky in my pursuit of the Pel's Fishing Owl. This owl is one of Africa's largest. It is highly prized among birdwatchers as it can be quite tricky to find and it is nowhere common. I had seen one once before along South Africa's Limpopo River, but I wanted to see it again. Sugar said he knew of a place very close by where they often roost. 10 minutes later he stopped the vehicle in the middle of a mature stand of Mangosteen trees, we got out, I looked up and there it was, a Pel's Fishing Owl, brilliant!

The Okavango Delta is one of the easiest places to find this elusive owl, all guides know about it and if they are around they will take you to look for it.

6. Sunsets are a highlight on any safari. After a day of sensational wildlife viewing, there is no better way than to grab a drink and watch the sun go down with your fellow safari companions discussing the day's events. We were doing just this one evening, when we hadn't noticed a small breeding herd of elephant approaching. By the time we had spotted them it was to late for us to get into the vehicle, all our guide said to us was to be still. They casually strolled by as though we weren't even there.

Elephant are common in Botswana and are found throughout the northern region.

7. Lions are still common in many national parks throughout Africa. Having visited the Kruger on numerous occasions I have had many sightings of this magnificent cat. My group and I had just enjoyed a boat trip on one of the largest lagoons in the delta. We were driving back to our camp when our guide spotted two male lions; they were big boys and were behaving in a very skittish manner. We initially lost them, but after a few moments found them, as we appeared they focused their gaze on us. There was something very wild about them. The one guy in particular stared at us very uncomfortably and at one point I thought he was going to make a dash for the vehicle. Eventually they moved off. It seriously got the adrenaline pumping and one of the sightings of the trip.

8. Baboons aren't everyone's favourite but they can be very entertaining. It's a bit like people watching at a busy place, like an airport. On one very hot afternoon we came across a large troop, they were extremely entertaining and kept us captivated for over an hour. Some of the males were particularly fascinating. They were out on a mission; to impress the ladies. Of course the girls were playing hard to get and pretended to ignore the attention they were getting. One of them decided that she would be a tease and climb to the top of a dead shrub. It barely could support her weight so every time the male attempted to reach her he would fall off. He gave up in the end and decided he would wait, it was a wait in vain and he eventually found another female to pester.

9. Wild Dogs are one of the rarest predators in Africa; there are only a few areas where they can still be found. When not breeding they are highly nomadic covering huge distances. In November they start moving, and so can be tricky to find. While staying at Duma Tau in the Linyanti, we had come very close to finding them, so close that we could actually smell they had been around. Following that we had come close but not seen them. It was my second last full day in Botswana and finally after some serious off roading in the Kwando River Concession we found 4 dogs, an alpha male and female along with two pups. Our guide informed us that the rest of the pack had most probably gone hunting. Wild Dogs are highly sociable and packs vary in size from 4 to 20 odd individuals. Only the alpha pair has pups, if another female gives birth, the offspring are killed.

Wild dog are most easily found in the Kwando, Savute and Linyanti areas. They are not common and can be difficult to find.

10. The Birds of Prey. In all I managed to see 22 different species of these magnificent birds, including 11 species of Eagle. It could have been more and on a dedicated bird watching safari you could easily see over 30 species. Because this conservation area is so massive, these birds thrive. Highlights included the Red-necked Falcon, Western Banded Snake Eagle, Dickinson’s Kestrel and Lappet-faced Vulture. The African Fish Eagle is very common in the Okavango and their magnificent call is heard frequently throughout the day.

In addition to the above I also saw Red Lechwe, Hippo, Buffalo, Sitatunga (rare antelope), Kudu, Zebra, Wildebeest, Crocodile, Tsessebe, Caracal, Warthog, Black-backed Jackal, Banded Mongoose and 247 species of bird.

In all I had a very rewarding trip, even though I travelled at the time of year when game viewing is most difficult I still saw a huge variety. If you don’t mind the heat, travel in the Green Season, the light is excellent for photography (no dust), the lodges are largely half full or even empty (twice I was the only occupant in the entire lodge), the wildlife is spectacular and generally the rates are a lot more competitive.

Travel with Cox and Kings on the Great Botswana Safari or alternatively call 020 7873 5000 to speak to one of our Africa experts about tailor-making your holiday in Botswana.

Desperately Seeking Tigers

Online Marketing Executive Michael Pullman recently travelled to India to seek out tigers in Kanha National Park.

It’s our first morning in Kanha National Park and after a 5:00 am start my eyes are playing tricks on me. In the pale early morning light, every rock is a monkey, every deer a tiger, and there are plenty of false alarms as we head through the forest.

After driving for ten minutes, Dev, our guide, suddenly brings the jeep to a halt. “Monkey alarm call” he whispers as we also register the calls made by the languor monkey, which sound a little like the honk of an old-fashioned car horn. Our eyes scan the forest as the alarm calls intensify. Languor monkeys are known as the eyes of the forest, and often frustrate the tiger’s stealthy hunting methods with their loud cries. These calls mean either a tiger or a leopard is on the move, and such is the commotion in the trees above us that we know the unseen big cat must be very close. After 5 minutes of holding our breath and keeping absolutely still we give up and drive on, and then, as we turn a corner, I notice the shoulders, rear and finally tail of a large cat disappearing into the forest in the clearing below. “Tiger” I shout, but neither our guide nor driver has seen it, and the rest of the jeep’s passengers caught only the tail. So frustratingly, my first tiger sighting cannot be properly verified, and I start to doubt whether I actually saw it at all.

Kanha National Park is a beautiful setting for seeking tigers, with dense forests, streams, sweet-smelling meadows and abundant wildlife. During our stay here we will see bison, jackal, mongoose, deer and numerous birds including kingfisher, eagle and the beautiful Indian roller (left). Of course everyone wants to see a tiger, but I cannot imagine a more perfect setting for the hunt, as we drive along narrow dusty tracks, through forests of green sal trees and past stunning lakes, hives of activity where the larger animals come to cool down.

Whilst Kanha National Park is one of the best places in India to see tigers, the animal is as threatened here as it is everywhere else. Poachers and loss of natural habitat are the main causes, and the latest figures are rather depressing, with there being just over 100 tigers inside the wildlife conservation area of Kanha. Part of the problem is space, with the average male tiger requiring a territory of around 40 square kilometres.

Given that Kanha stretches over 940 square km you sometimes feel that you would have more chance of finding a needle in a haystack than seeing a tiger. We spend the remainder of the first morning on a wild goose chase following reported sightings, and when we do catch up with one we can barely see it, even with binoculars, despite our guide clearly being able to see it with his naked eye. The tiger’s camouflage is quite remarkable, with its stripes breaking up its body shape so it can become almost impossible to see until it moves. When it finally does move we all wondered how we never saw it in the first place. This long-range sighting, whilst thrilling, does not sate our thirst for tigers.

Luckily, Kanha National Park has a series of elephants expertly controlled by ‘mahouts’, who can veer off the roads into the jungle and thus seek out and get close to any tigers in the vicinity. After our long-distance tiger spot we race off to a kind of elephant bus stop, where visitors can catch the next available elephant (which always has room for one more on top), and clamber aboard in pairs. The mahout then directs our elephant, by prodding behind his ears with his bare feet, to within metres of a tigress resting in a shaded cave. The first thing that strikes us is the size of the animal, with its powerful shoulders and huge paws. The heaviest of all the big cats, tigers weigh around 40 stone. What also strikes us is how nonchalant it seems in our presence, as she looks up and yawns, rather like a domestic cat. The relationships between the mahout and the elephant, and the elephant and the tiger are fascinating to observe. It is hard to believe we are perched on top of an elephant only feet away from a wild and extremely dangerous animal.

Our close encounter with a tiger sends us home happy, but not before something wonderful happens on the way back to our lodge. We notice three jeeps parked by the side of the tracks ahead, and stop next to them. “Tiger” whisper the excited members of the jeep in front, and we follow their pointing fingers and this time the sight is unmistakable. A female tigress walking across the meadow in full view for about 30 seconds until she disappears into the forest, provoking monkey calls and a general sound of jungle panic all around her. It is an extremely emotional experience, much more affecting than the close encounter we have just had with the sleeping tiger. This feels more natural, less intrusive, and we feel privileged to be witnessing the tiger as it goes about its business.

A word of warning: Kanha National Park is not easy to get to. However, our sightings and the wonderful hospitality at Kanha Royal Tiger Resort, where we stayed, made the epic trek, which involved an internal flight to Nagpur followed by a six-hour drive on typical Indian country roads, more than worthwhile.

Our experiences of tigers have also made us all determined to do whatever we can to save this beautiful animal, which is currently in such a precarious state. Visiting one of India’s National Parks is a start, as the more tourism benefits the surrounding local communities the easier it will be to stamp out poaching. You can also donate to one of the many tiger conservation charities, such as Global Tiger Patrol or the Save The Tiger Fund.

Cox & Kings' 10-night In Search of the Tiger tour visits Kanha and Bandhavgarh National Parks and starts from £2445 per person. The 10-night Safari in Style tour also visits Kanha National Park, as well sa Bandhavgarh and Pench National Parks, where accommodaiton is in newly opened Taj / CC Africa properties.

Ancient Greece

Quality Control Executive Heather Fitsell recently travelled to Greece with Cox & Kings.

As I arrived into the hustle and bustle of Athens on a warm November evening my illusions of white buildings and clear blue skies evaporated. The image I had in my head of Greece was one of the Greek islands, such as Santorini, but as my journey through mainland Greece progressed, I was far from disappointed with the scenery that I saw.

Our first day took us to the heights of the Acropolis, which provided us with fantastic 360-degree views of Athens. The Propylaia, which forms the towering entrance, and the Parthenon itself are undergoing an extensive restoration project, which is due to last for many years to come, and we were a little surprised to see some scaffolding around the site. However, this process itself is quite fascinating, as the stonemasons sculpt new white marble pieces to replace lost or damaged parts of the building structures, with the aim of re-building the Parthenon to its former glory.

Our journey continued over the striking Corinth canal, which links the Ionian and Aegean Seas and on to the Peloponnese and the World Heritage-listed site of ancient Mycenae (left). Passing through the dramatic Lion Gate, we entered this wonderful site, which features in Homer’s Iliad and Odyssey. For 400 years Mycenae was one of the most powerful kingdoms in Greece and it remains steeped in history and myth. It is also blessed with stunning views of the orange groves below and surrounding mountains. Whilst modern Mycenae is not particularly interesting, visitors must be sure to try some locally produced fresh orange juice.

The small port town of Nafplio, set at the foot of the Palamidi Fortress, was to be our home for the next two nights. Nafplio is a beautiful town and we were lucky enough to be staying at the elegantly restored Hotel Grande Bretagne, right on the sea front. We found Nafplio quite sleepy at the end of November, but the vast array of seafront restaurants are a clear indication of the throng of tourists that visit this town during the warmer months. Be sure to try some Greek specialties during your stay, including saganaki (fried cheese), mousaka, or souvlaki (cubes of meat on a skewer).

From Nafplio we took a half-day trip to Epidavros, which was historically known as a place of miraculous healing. The site has been acknowledged as the birthplace of Asclepius - the son of Apollo, god of medicine and healing. Today visitors flock to see the amphitheatre, one of the best-preserved classical Greek buildings. Renowned for its amazing acoustics, the amphitheatre is still used for the annual Hellenic Festival. We went on to explore the peaceful remains at the less-visited sanctuary, which were definitely worth the extra time spent at Epidavros.

The road from Nafplio to Olympia eventually took us through some of the countryside devastated by the fires last summer. The Greeks have had to clear 2,700 square kilometres of burnt trees. As a result the hillsides are stark and unforgiving; we can barely begin to imagine what a terrible time this was for the Greeks. The fire fighters did a sterling job in protecting the ancient site of Olympia - although the sacred Hill of Kronos was completely burnt, the rest of the site was spared and the devastation around ancient Olympia did not in any way detract from our enjoyment and appreciation of it.

The site has been left as it fell and the ruins of the 5th century Temple of Zeus and the stadium with its 120 metre sprint track and judges seats can be explored up close. The museum helps to put everything into perspective by completing the story and demonstrating the grandeur of the site. The pediments from the Temple of Zeus were, for me, the most impressive remains in the museum. The eastern pediment depicts the chariot race between Pelops and Oinomaos and the western pediment shows the fight between Centaurs and Lapiths.

We took an early morning drive the following day over the new 2,880 metre long Rio-Antirio Bridge from the Peloponnese back to the mainland. The bridge is a beautiful construction and was inaugurated just one week before the 2004 Olympic Games.

We then followed the mountainous roads to the village of Delphi, the naval of the earth for ancient Greeks. Delphi is a small village located on a cliff edge and is very popular with tourists. Ancient Delphi is a very spiritual place, based around the Sanctuary of Apollo, and houses a number of treasuries, an amphitheatre from the 4th-Century BC and a stadium. Whilst the site is quite steep, if you can make it up to the top of the amphitheatre the stunning view is very rewarding. A visit to this beautiful site was a wonderful way to end our trip to Greece.

Cox & Kings' 8-night Classical Greece tour visits Olympia and Delphi and starts from £1,545 per person.

Luxury on the Nile

Cox & Kings' PR Executive Laura Smith recently travelled on the maiden voyage of Oberoi's luxurious Nile cruise ship, Zahra.

On October 4th, I joined a group of five British journalists and two other European press groups on the maiden voyage of Oberoi’s new luxury Nile Cruiser, Zahra. Billed as the Nile’s most luxurious vessel, Zahra was expected to blow its competitors out of the water with its top-notch facilities, elegant décor and superior service.

Early on Tuesday morning our group arrived in Luxor, where we were whisked through customs and straight into two blacked-out Mercedes 4 x 4 vehicles. On the 15-minute drive to Zahra’s private docking area, we were given large bottles of ice-cold water and jasmine scented towels. Our royal treatment had begun.

Oberoi’s private docking is a huge advantage, and immediately puts Zahra and sister ship Oberoi Philae way ahead of their 290-odd competitors. From Zahra’s gleaming deck, you can easily imagine that the Nile isn’t quite the well-trodden path everyone knows it to be, out of sight of the three dozen larger cruisers standing bow-to-stern a kilometre or so downstream.

Zahra is spacious to say the least, accommodating a maximum of just 50 guests, and the inaugural sailing had just 19 guests on board. There were at least three Oberoi crew per guest and nothing was too much trouble – whether providing chilled water for a morning’s excursion or fixing a broken suitcase, the helpful crew achieved it all effortlessly and with a smile.

The 25 luxury cabins are plush and comfortable, with a good-sized bed, table and chairs positioned towards the flowing Nile. But the piece de resistance is the en suite bathroom (left). Half the size of the bedroom, the en suite consists of a shiny new WC and large basin, complete with delicious L’Occitane products, and a huge shower in glass and aquamarine tiles, with an over-sized showerhead. The bathroom’s sea-facing wall is dominated by an enormous picture window and, at the push of a button, the blinds wind up to reveal breathtaking views of the Nile. Just don’t do this after sunset. The blacked-out windows are not as concealing as they appear once the lights have been switched on inside!

Oberoi Zahra is currently the only boat on the Nile to boast its own spa, and I’m amazed it’s not been done before. After a morning’s sightseeing at the Valley of the Kings, what could be better than a relaxing massage or cooling facial. Choose from Ayurvedic, Thai and Swedish massage and a selection of other treatments, given in one of four dedicated spa suites. I opted for Zahra’s signature Oberoi massage and was not disappointed.

The food was wonderful. Oberoi have relocated one of their finest chefs from India, Mr Siddhartha Chowdry, who brought with him a tantalising collection of Indian recipes to sit alongside traditional Egyptian fare in Zahra’s impressive menu. The a la carte menu was changed for every meal and included fresh salads, seafood, Keralan curries and fresh lamb cutlets, accompanied by an impressive list of local and international wines, and tropical cocktails.

If its royal treatment you’re after, a stay on Zahra could be just the thing. There’s no time to feel the grumbles of hunger before a freshly prepared lunch is laid out; no time to question whether it’s ‘Gin & Tonic O’clock’ before a sumptuous cocktail menu is placed in your hands, and certainly no time or reason to feel tension in your neck before a Thai masseuse is at your side. On Zahra, you won’t want for anything, except perhaps to stay a little longer.

Cox & Kings offers 7-night cruises aboard the Oberoi Zahra from £1,795 per person, including flights, 7 nights full board on the Oberoi Zahra, guided excursions and 4 nights in Cairo.

Tutankhamun at the O2

The last time artefacts from Tutankhamun's tomb came to Britain 35 years ago, they caused a sensation, as 1.5 million people poured into the British Museum to see them. The latest exhibition at the O2 Dome is already well on the way to capturing the public's imagination in a similar way. Last night four Cox & Kings staff had a look around the exhibition. Here are their thoughts:

Katie, Middle East Tour Consultant
For those who have yet to visit Egypt, I think the exhibition gives a fantastic introduction into what lies in store. I have been told that the collection in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo is much more comprehensive but I was very impressed with what I saw. The detail on some of the pieces is incredible - my favourites were the small but very intricate coffinette (left) and Tutankhamun's chair. Neither look as though they could be over 3000 years old. For beginner Egyptologists a visit to the exhibition is a must, but for the experts a trip to Cairo might be better! 6/10

Michael, Online Marketing Executive
As an introduction to Egypt I thought the exhibition was fascinating. It is worthwhile getting the headsets, because although the audio commentary, narrated by Omar Sharif, is a little cheesy, it encourages you to pay more attention to the fascinating artefacts (and also gives a gruesome description of the embalming process). What really struck me was the superb craftsmanship of the pieces, particularly the incredibly life-like statue of Queen Nefertiti, Tut's mother-in-law (above). 7/10

Mark, Middle East Product Manager
Whilst the artefacts on display were stunning, I felt the exhibition lacked a 'wow factor' item, such as Tutankhamun's funeral mask or his mummy casket. Having been to the Egyptian Museum in Cairo you are aware just how many more amazing exhibits there are to see. I would say the exhibition worked as a taster of what Egypt has to offer, and if the exhibition sells well, I am sure it will result in a rise in demand for tours to Egypt. 4.5/10

Vanessa, Operations Manager
Having never been to Egypt I found the exhibition a good introduction and was fascinated by how well preserved the artefacts were. The first part of the exhibition focuses on Tutankhamun's ancestors, which is interesting in itself, and the last part is dedicated to Tutankhamun. The exhibits are well displayed and have all been given their own space so there is no overcrowding and jostling for position. One partciular highlight is the gold statue of Tutankhamun, left. The exhibition has fuelled my desire to visit the land of the Pharaohs and it was great to see the Dome as well. 5/10

Last night's viewing was sponsored by BMI, who have recently launched a new route from London Heathrow to Cairo. Tickets for the Tutenkhamun exhibition cost £20 during the week and £15 at weekends and can be purchased here. Cox & Kings offers a wide variety of group tours, private journeys and tailor-made options to Egypt.

From the land of the palm tree

Latin America Product Manager Vessela Baleva recently travelled to Cuba with Cox & Kings and found that the challenges posed by Cuba's crumbling infrastructure were more than rewarded by some unforgettable experiences.


Guantanamera:
Yo soy un hombre sincero
De donde crece la palma
Y antes de morirme quiero
Echar mis versos del alma
Guantanamera guajira guantanamera...

I am a sincere man
From the land of the palm tree
And before I die I would like
To sing these heartfelt verses.

Most people have probably heard the “Guantanamera“ song without even visiting Cuba, and it echoed in my ears almost as soon as I arrived in the country. It seems to be in the repertoire of almost every music band playing on street corners or in bars, but it only struck me when leaving the country that its verses perfectly summarise my feelings about the land of the royal palm.


Above - Guantanamera performed by Compay Segundo

Beyond the classic images that Cuba is best known for - the current communist leader Fidel Castro, Havana cigars, rum and vintage American cars - I shall also remember this unique island for the sincerity of its people, the vibrancy of its music and the beauty of its tropical scenery.


Cuba is home to over a hundred species of native palms, most of which are endemic - I could hardly take a photograph without one. They dot the floors of the picturesque valleys, cover the gently rolling hills and the slopes of the mountains, line the white powder sandy beaches and adorn the local town squares. Without doubt the most distinctive and commonly encountered of them all, the true aristocrat of the palm kingdom, is the Royal Palm, with its smooth silver grey trunk - it is central even in the national coat of arms.

Also omnipresent is Cuban music. Played live on the main square of old Havana or the local Troubadour’s house (“Casa de la Trova”), pouring out of bars and cafes or blaring from car stereos, music seems to run naturally through the veins of Cubans. With roots in Spain and West Africa, the variety of Afro-Caribbean and Latin rhythms would satisfy anyone’s taste. From contemporary salsa, lively rumba and cha-cha-cha, romantic bolero, rhythmic son, tamed guajira or Cuban jazz, you would certainly be tempted to buy one of those CDs readily offered for sale.

The cultural heritage and beautiful beaches are the two major draws that bring tourists to Cuba, and I was not disappointed by either. The capital Havana is considered one of the oldest and grandest cities in the Americas and the palaces, mansion and churches of its old quarter (Havana Vieja) rank among the most handsome buildings from the Spanish colonial era.

Though Havana has stayed physically untouched by the devastating wars of independence, it has been seriously affected by the forces of nature and time. Crumbling edifices and worn out facades, trees growing out of rooftops and washing dripping down from balconies, this is a less appealing part of the picture, which still somehow adds to the uniqueness of the place. Whether you choose to stroll around Old Havana’s beautiful squares, visit one of the many colonial mansions now converted into museums, admire the swift and expert skills of the cigar rollers at a tobacco factory or just relax sipping a mojito on the rooftop terrace or peaceful courtyard of your hotel, there is plenty to do for a few days in this dynamic city.

Cuba has many other colonial towns, and each one of them has its own distinctive feature that sets it apart from the rest. I shall remember Trinidad (perhaps my favourite Cuban city, left) for its narrow cobblestone streets (created because the Spanish fleet transporting the riches to the old continent had to bring stones on their inbound journey to balance their empty hulls at sea) and its surrounding sugar mills ruins; Cienfuegos for its French-influenced architecture and sea breezes; Camaguey for its winding streets deliberately built in an irregular pattern to confuse attackers; Santiago de Cuba for its beautiful natural setting between the sea and the mountains; and Baracoa for its quiet charm and relaxed atmosphere away from the tourist trail. And each one of those comes with plenty of history, from the time Columbus first landed to the years of the Revolution.

Cuba is surrounded by around 900 coral islands called keys, and I found some of the most idyllic ones to be situated to the north of the mainland. Even getting to some of those for me was a surreal experience, as it involved driving along causeways that stretch out into the blue ocean - sometimes for nearly 20 miles. Soft powder sands and warm turquoise waters make up these paradise spots, spoiled only by the excessive development of all-inclusive hotels. Luckily there are still places like the tiny Cayo Ensenachos (left) where the recently opened deluxe Royal Hideaway is the only property, and whose extraordinary long white sand beach is still almost deserted.

Apart from the beaches, the delightful Cuban landscape consists of evergreen sugar and tobacco plantations, rolling hills and lush mountains. While the beautiful Viñales valley (left) with its prehistoric limestone hills known as "mogotes" is only a two-hour drive from Havana, to explore the mountainous Sierra Maestra National Park containing the country’s highest peak (Pico Torquino at 1974 m) and travel along the bumpy roads, you need an adventurous soul

Though Cuba is not famous for its wildlife, its 350 varieties of birds will not disappoint. The number of birds I saw during a casual midday walk in the little-known "Granma Desembarkment National Park", protecting some of the last untouched rainforest, was amazing and my hour-long efforts through the unbearable tropical heat over a path scattered with natural jagged rocks (rightfully called in Spanish "dog's teeth”) was rewarded with a sighting of a royal carpenter woodpecker, which is believed to be close to extinction although still existing in Cuba.

Travelling through the country’s interior gave me a glimpse into the real life of everyday Cuba. The occasional old American car, the haggard horse carts, the rusty bicycles, the diverse faces of locals waiting for a lift, the small bohios (typical rural thatched roof huts) and the cheerful kids in their colourful school uniforms were a sufficient compensation for the long road journeys. Passing by places where time seemed to be almost at a complete standstill, I quickly became accustomed to any delay caused by overnight landslides, the slowly marching herd of oxen or the unfavourable mood of the traffic policeman. And I found that this, together with the sometimes bland food and unpredictable power cuts, were all part of the complicated charm of this intriguing country.

Cuba has already celebrated its 50th anniversary from the beginning of the Revolution and, though political slogans throughout the country boldly propagandise “Long Live Fidel -80 years more!”, sooner or later it is bound to change. As dynamic as the Cubans are, any political or economic changes will inevitably bring cultural and social transformations and I feel extremely privileged to have managed to visit this unique destination as it is now.


Cox & Kings offers a number of options to Cuba, including the 10-night private journey Spirit of Cuba and the 10-night group tour Cuban Discovery.

Tiger tiger...

India Consultant Isla MacFarlane recently travelled to Bandhavgarh National Park in Central India, where she found she had a previously undiscovered interest in nature.



It was hard to muster enthusiasm over the wildlife we first encountered at Bandhavgarh National Park when I had squatted over more exotic creatures whenever nature had called on the 9-hour drive to get there. I suppose I’ve never been much of a naturalist. I had always travelled to see how other people live - a fascination that did not extend to animals.
We had driven out of the sleepy temple town of Khajuraho on mud roads that could have been covered with eggs and flour and baked to their perfect golden brown. The reels of scenery – huts, goats, trees – which rolled past us gradually ran out, leaving us staring at an empty landscape. The road cracked and crumbled until it was nothing but two sandy track marks which snaked to the scorched horizon.


We rattled past the park entrance as the sun was setting. I had never been to a jungle before. I suppose I pictured a troop of elephants stomping straight out of a Kipling novel, or monkeys swinging from an Edgar Rice Burroughs series. Our driver grinned and pointed excitedly to the floor just below my window. I craned my neck out of the car expectantly. A chicken clucked up at us. He puffed his feathers out, as if desperately trying to impress. I affectionately named him 'tandoori' and asked for him to be taken to our lodge.


One of my favourite things about being in India is that I can eat curry three times a day. My appetite had shrivelled in the forty-something degree heat but it returned upon a thick, spicy waft from the kitchen. I felt much more human after slopping down velvety mouthfuls of daal spooned onto a mountain of fluffy rice. Stomach as tight as a drum, I found myself in a losing battle with my eyelids and retired.

A pounding woke me up at 04:30. I opened the door to my alarm call, but could only make out a pair of eyes and a tea tray. The eyes blinked and the tray floated towards me.

“Morning m’am,” said the eyes. I looked out into the dusty darkness and begged to differ.

I wondered if I had actually woken up at all as I sat on my porch in my pyjamas, sipping chai and listening to noises I’d only heard on relaxation tapes before. It started with a simple hum from the cicadas, but as the bruised, purple horizon faded to blue the jungle came into full orchestration. By the time I had finished my chai and biscuits its honks, howls and growls could have rivalled Delhi’s traffic.

I walked back into my room as the electricity fizzled out, resigning its job to the early morning sun. I showered in blackness with a frog splashing excitedly in the foaming puddles. I could see its white throat pulsating in the dark. How could anyone invent a fairy-story fabricated around kissing one of these? I had first discovered him on a midnight trip to the ladies – he was perched on the toilet roll like a little goblin. My hand came into contact with something rough. Knowing not even recycled toilet paper could feel that bad, I squeezed. I felt tiny joints poke through leathery skin and let rip a scream that would have made Jane Porter proud.

Shower-fresh and wearing enough insect repellent to give Pepe Le Pew a new love interest I met the others at our jeep. At the gates of the park we joined the heard of jeeps all waiting to crash through the gates at opening time. The vehicles looked like a new breed altogether, engines purring excitedly as the gates started to open. I wondered if this was how the animals saw us; a curious breed - perhaps related to the rhino - that crashes through the jungle with its babies riding its back. It would explain why the wildlife wasn’t particularly shy. The first tiger we saw seemed almost bored by us.

He was lying in tall grass by the trees. I finally understood how a tiger could burn bright in the forests of the night. His grape green eyes singed through the grass as he stared out at us. He hadn’t quite grown into his ears, which flopped awkwardly at the sides of his head like badly fitting earmuffs. I actually thought he was rather cute as he sat licking his paw - until he showed us his deadliest weapon with a single, carefree yawn. I wasn’t expecting to be impressed. I had seen tigers before - behind the bars of London Zoo and lazing around the lawns of Longleat. It wasn’t the fact I was closer than I’d ever been or that there was no glass or bars between us. It was the way he looked at us. In England I had seen tigers as victims, exhibits or novelties. Here, he gazed wide-eyed at our foreign bodies; a heard of jeeps which clicked silent, useless weapons in his direction. I was in his world now.

He tired of us quickly and sauntered into the trees with the air of a spoilt teenager. I felt rather like an unwanted guest, who’d called inconveniently at dinnertime and been left to show myself out. We prepared to move on, but waited as an elephant pushed through the trees and across our path. There was something about him that was almost prehistoric; a bald, aged woolly mammoth who charmed his onlookers with a toothless smile. Travelling in a country that was changing radically by the hour, it was comforting to see something so timeless.

The early morning mist was beginning to clear, unveiling the splendour of Bandhavgarh National Park. We were two weeks from the monsoon and the colours of the park had faded under the garish light of the sun, giving the grass and trees sepia tones. Mighty stone cliffs enclosed the park; their jagged edges making it look as though a giant tiger had taken a bite out of the skyline. Bandhavgarh is known as the national park where nature meets history. Being more interested in the latter, I asked to be driven up to the fortress that looms over the park.

Legend has it that two monkey architects built the fort. It seems they had left minions to watch their handiwork; scores of monkeys bounced around the sandstone caves to the North of the building, which showed the earliest signs of humanity in the form of inscriptions dating back to the 1st century BC.

The fort’s bricks were knitted together perfectly like red wool. The Maharajas who had owned the park from the 3rd century AD until 1968 could see their whole playground from its height. Poaching was one of their favourite pastimes, and from the fort the sport looked like shooting fish in a barrel. It was considered a good omen for a maharaja to kill 109 tigers. Today people came from all over the world in the hope of seeing just one. Prior to my own sighting, I would have been wondering, probably along with the ghosts of maharajas past, what the point was in a mere sighting.

The tigers I saw flickered in my head for days, whereas the human remains were quickly buried in my memory. Reflecting on the monuments of humanity I had seen on my trip, conservation suddenly seemed more exciting than preservation. The Taj Mahal was utterly beautiful; its shimmering white marble making it look as though it had been carved out of the moon. But it was, in essence, a tomb. The ancient, dusty ruins of Orchha made me feel as though I had discovered a forgotten Xanadu. But it was a dead city, and would continue crumbling dry, dusty tears until there was nothing left of it.

In the jungle, the animals and their habitat were very much alive and represented past, present and - we can only hope - future. Perhaps the fascination lies in seeing creatures act on instincts that lie dormant in us after centuries of evolution. They can appear as mystical as the fort that watches over them; silent and unchanging. I did feel an allure to try and understand them better.

Perhaps there is a naturalist in me after all …


Seek out tigers in Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks on Cox & Kings' 10-night In Search of the Bengal Tiger tour.