From the land of the palm tree

Latin America Product Manager Vessela Baleva recently travelled to Cuba with Cox & Kings and found that the challenges posed by Cuba's crumbling infrastructure were more than rewarded by some unforgettable experiences.


Guantanamera:
Yo soy un hombre sincero
De donde crece la palma
Y antes de morirme quiero
Echar mis versos del alma
Guantanamera guajira guantanamera...

I am a sincere man
From the land of the palm tree
And before I die I would like
To sing these heartfelt verses.

Most people have probably heard the “Guantanamera“ song without even visiting Cuba, and it echoed in my ears almost as soon as I arrived in the country. It seems to be in the repertoire of almost every music band playing on street corners or in bars, but it only struck me when leaving the country that its verses perfectly summarise my feelings about the land of the royal palm.


Above - Guantanamera performed by Compay Segundo

Beyond the classic images that Cuba is best known for - the current communist leader Fidel Castro, Havana cigars, rum and vintage American cars - I shall also remember this unique island for the sincerity of its people, the vibrancy of its music and the beauty of its tropical scenery.


Cuba is home to over a hundred species of native palms, most of which are endemic - I could hardly take a photograph without one. They dot the floors of the picturesque valleys, cover the gently rolling hills and the slopes of the mountains, line the white powder sandy beaches and adorn the local town squares. Without doubt the most distinctive and commonly encountered of them all, the true aristocrat of the palm kingdom, is the Royal Palm, with its smooth silver grey trunk - it is central even in the national coat of arms.

Also omnipresent is Cuban music. Played live on the main square of old Havana or the local Troubadour’s house (“Casa de la Trova”), pouring out of bars and cafes or blaring from car stereos, music seems to run naturally through the veins of Cubans. With roots in Spain and West Africa, the variety of Afro-Caribbean and Latin rhythms would satisfy anyone’s taste. From contemporary salsa, lively rumba and cha-cha-cha, romantic bolero, rhythmic son, tamed guajira or Cuban jazz, you would certainly be tempted to buy one of those CDs readily offered for sale.

The cultural heritage and beautiful beaches are the two major draws that bring tourists to Cuba, and I was not disappointed by either. The capital Havana is considered one of the oldest and grandest cities in the Americas and the palaces, mansion and churches of its old quarter (Havana Vieja) rank among the most handsome buildings from the Spanish colonial era.

Though Havana has stayed physically untouched by the devastating wars of independence, it has been seriously affected by the forces of nature and time. Crumbling edifices and worn out facades, trees growing out of rooftops and washing dripping down from balconies, this is a less appealing part of the picture, which still somehow adds to the uniqueness of the place. Whether you choose to stroll around Old Havana’s beautiful squares, visit one of the many colonial mansions now converted into museums, admire the swift and expert skills of the cigar rollers at a tobacco factory or just relax sipping a mojito on the rooftop terrace or peaceful courtyard of your hotel, there is plenty to do for a few days in this dynamic city.

Cuba has many other colonial towns, and each one of them has its own distinctive feature that sets it apart from the rest. I shall remember Trinidad (perhaps my favourite Cuban city, left) for its narrow cobblestone streets (created because the Spanish fleet transporting the riches to the old continent had to bring stones on their inbound journey to balance their empty hulls at sea) and its surrounding sugar mills ruins; Cienfuegos for its French-influenced architecture and sea breezes; Camaguey for its winding streets deliberately built in an irregular pattern to confuse attackers; Santiago de Cuba for its beautiful natural setting between the sea and the mountains; and Baracoa for its quiet charm and relaxed atmosphere away from the tourist trail. And each one of those comes with plenty of history, from the time Columbus first landed to the years of the Revolution.

Cuba is surrounded by around 900 coral islands called keys, and I found some of the most idyllic ones to be situated to the north of the mainland. Even getting to some of those for me was a surreal experience, as it involved driving along causeways that stretch out into the blue ocean - sometimes for nearly 20 miles. Soft powder sands and warm turquoise waters make up these paradise spots, spoiled only by the excessive development of all-inclusive hotels. Luckily there are still places like the tiny Cayo Ensenachos (left) where the recently opened deluxe Royal Hideaway is the only property, and whose extraordinary long white sand beach is still almost deserted.

Apart from the beaches, the delightful Cuban landscape consists of evergreen sugar and tobacco plantations, rolling hills and lush mountains. While the beautiful Viñales valley (left) with its prehistoric limestone hills known as "mogotes" is only a two-hour drive from Havana, to explore the mountainous Sierra Maestra National Park containing the country’s highest peak (Pico Torquino at 1974 m) and travel along the bumpy roads, you need an adventurous soul

Though Cuba is not famous for its wildlife, its 350 varieties of birds will not disappoint. The number of birds I saw during a casual midday walk in the little-known "Granma Desembarkment National Park", protecting some of the last untouched rainforest, was amazing and my hour-long efforts through the unbearable tropical heat over a path scattered with natural jagged rocks (rightfully called in Spanish "dog's teeth”) was rewarded with a sighting of a royal carpenter woodpecker, which is believed to be close to extinction although still existing in Cuba.

Travelling through the country’s interior gave me a glimpse into the real life of everyday Cuba. The occasional old American car, the haggard horse carts, the rusty bicycles, the diverse faces of locals waiting for a lift, the small bohios (typical rural thatched roof huts) and the cheerful kids in their colourful school uniforms were a sufficient compensation for the long road journeys. Passing by places where time seemed to be almost at a complete standstill, I quickly became accustomed to any delay caused by overnight landslides, the slowly marching herd of oxen or the unfavourable mood of the traffic policeman. And I found that this, together with the sometimes bland food and unpredictable power cuts, were all part of the complicated charm of this intriguing country.

Cuba has already celebrated its 50th anniversary from the beginning of the Revolution and, though political slogans throughout the country boldly propagandise “Long Live Fidel -80 years more!”, sooner or later it is bound to change. As dynamic as the Cubans are, any political or economic changes will inevitably bring cultural and social transformations and I feel extremely privileged to have managed to visit this unique destination as it is now.


Cox & Kings offers a number of options to Cuba, including the 10-night private journey Spirit of Cuba and the 10-night group tour Cuban Discovery.

Tiger tiger...

India Consultant Isla MacFarlane recently travelled to Bandhavgarh National Park in Central India, where she found she had a previously undiscovered interest in nature.



It was hard to muster enthusiasm over the wildlife we first encountered at Bandhavgarh National Park when I had squatted over more exotic creatures whenever nature had called on the 9-hour drive to get there. I suppose I’ve never been much of a naturalist. I had always travelled to see how other people live - a fascination that did not extend to animals.
We had driven out of the sleepy temple town of Khajuraho on mud roads that could have been covered with eggs and flour and baked to their perfect golden brown. The reels of scenery – huts, goats, trees – which rolled past us gradually ran out, leaving us staring at an empty landscape. The road cracked and crumbled until it was nothing but two sandy track marks which snaked to the scorched horizon.


We rattled past the park entrance as the sun was setting. I had never been to a jungle before. I suppose I pictured a troop of elephants stomping straight out of a Kipling novel, or monkeys swinging from an Edgar Rice Burroughs series. Our driver grinned and pointed excitedly to the floor just below my window. I craned my neck out of the car expectantly. A chicken clucked up at us. He puffed his feathers out, as if desperately trying to impress. I affectionately named him 'tandoori' and asked for him to be taken to our lodge.


One of my favourite things about being in India is that I can eat curry three times a day. My appetite had shrivelled in the forty-something degree heat but it returned upon a thick, spicy waft from the kitchen. I felt much more human after slopping down velvety mouthfuls of daal spooned onto a mountain of fluffy rice. Stomach as tight as a drum, I found myself in a losing battle with my eyelids and retired.

A pounding woke me up at 04:30. I opened the door to my alarm call, but could only make out a pair of eyes and a tea tray. The eyes blinked and the tray floated towards me.

“Morning m’am,” said the eyes. I looked out into the dusty darkness and begged to differ.

I wondered if I had actually woken up at all as I sat on my porch in my pyjamas, sipping chai and listening to noises I’d only heard on relaxation tapes before. It started with a simple hum from the cicadas, but as the bruised, purple horizon faded to blue the jungle came into full orchestration. By the time I had finished my chai and biscuits its honks, howls and growls could have rivalled Delhi’s traffic.

I walked back into my room as the electricity fizzled out, resigning its job to the early morning sun. I showered in blackness with a frog splashing excitedly in the foaming puddles. I could see its white throat pulsating in the dark. How could anyone invent a fairy-story fabricated around kissing one of these? I had first discovered him on a midnight trip to the ladies – he was perched on the toilet roll like a little goblin. My hand came into contact with something rough. Knowing not even recycled toilet paper could feel that bad, I squeezed. I felt tiny joints poke through leathery skin and let rip a scream that would have made Jane Porter proud.

Shower-fresh and wearing enough insect repellent to give Pepe Le Pew a new love interest I met the others at our jeep. At the gates of the park we joined the heard of jeeps all waiting to crash through the gates at opening time. The vehicles looked like a new breed altogether, engines purring excitedly as the gates started to open. I wondered if this was how the animals saw us; a curious breed - perhaps related to the rhino - that crashes through the jungle with its babies riding its back. It would explain why the wildlife wasn’t particularly shy. The first tiger we saw seemed almost bored by us.

He was lying in tall grass by the trees. I finally understood how a tiger could burn bright in the forests of the night. His grape green eyes singed through the grass as he stared out at us. He hadn’t quite grown into his ears, which flopped awkwardly at the sides of his head like badly fitting earmuffs. I actually thought he was rather cute as he sat licking his paw - until he showed us his deadliest weapon with a single, carefree yawn. I wasn’t expecting to be impressed. I had seen tigers before - behind the bars of London Zoo and lazing around the lawns of Longleat. It wasn’t the fact I was closer than I’d ever been or that there was no glass or bars between us. It was the way he looked at us. In England I had seen tigers as victims, exhibits or novelties. Here, he gazed wide-eyed at our foreign bodies; a heard of jeeps which clicked silent, useless weapons in his direction. I was in his world now.

He tired of us quickly and sauntered into the trees with the air of a spoilt teenager. I felt rather like an unwanted guest, who’d called inconveniently at dinnertime and been left to show myself out. We prepared to move on, but waited as an elephant pushed through the trees and across our path. There was something about him that was almost prehistoric; a bald, aged woolly mammoth who charmed his onlookers with a toothless smile. Travelling in a country that was changing radically by the hour, it was comforting to see something so timeless.

The early morning mist was beginning to clear, unveiling the splendour of Bandhavgarh National Park. We were two weeks from the monsoon and the colours of the park had faded under the garish light of the sun, giving the grass and trees sepia tones. Mighty stone cliffs enclosed the park; their jagged edges making it look as though a giant tiger had taken a bite out of the skyline. Bandhavgarh is known as the national park where nature meets history. Being more interested in the latter, I asked to be driven up to the fortress that looms over the park.

Legend has it that two monkey architects built the fort. It seems they had left minions to watch their handiwork; scores of monkeys bounced around the sandstone caves to the North of the building, which showed the earliest signs of humanity in the form of inscriptions dating back to the 1st century BC.

The fort’s bricks were knitted together perfectly like red wool. The Maharajas who had owned the park from the 3rd century AD until 1968 could see their whole playground from its height. Poaching was one of their favourite pastimes, and from the fort the sport looked like shooting fish in a barrel. It was considered a good omen for a maharaja to kill 109 tigers. Today people came from all over the world in the hope of seeing just one. Prior to my own sighting, I would have been wondering, probably along with the ghosts of maharajas past, what the point was in a mere sighting.

The tigers I saw flickered in my head for days, whereas the human remains were quickly buried in my memory. Reflecting on the monuments of humanity I had seen on my trip, conservation suddenly seemed more exciting than preservation. The Taj Mahal was utterly beautiful; its shimmering white marble making it look as though it had been carved out of the moon. But it was, in essence, a tomb. The ancient, dusty ruins of Orchha made me feel as though I had discovered a forgotten Xanadu. But it was a dead city, and would continue crumbling dry, dusty tears until there was nothing left of it.

In the jungle, the animals and their habitat were very much alive and represented past, present and - we can only hope - future. Perhaps the fascination lies in seeing creatures act on instincts that lie dormant in us after centuries of evolution. They can appear as mystical as the fort that watches over them; silent and unchanging. I did feel an allure to try and understand them better.

Perhaps there is a naturalist in me after all …


Seek out tigers in Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks on Cox & Kings' 10-night In Search of the Bengal Tiger tour.

Crayfish Party

Quality Control Executive Heather Fitsell recently visited Stockholm and experienced her first crayfish party.

In Sweden, August is the month of kräftskiva, which roughly translates into English as ‘crayfish party’. These parties are a veritable feast of food, washed down with copious amount of schnapps and beer.

A relatively modern tradition, kräftskiva was introduced in the early 20th Century. As a result of over-fishing in Swedish waters, the crayfish season was reduced to just two months, meaning it soon became a much sought-after delicacy. Today, visitors to Stockholm can enjoy crayfish in many of the city’s restaurants, as it is now available year round.

Traditionally, Swede’s hang up paper lanterns and dress their tables with matching plates, napkins, tablecloths and hats, before devouring bowls of crayfish. The crayfish is eaten cold, having been marinated in brine and dill. In order to extract the most meat and juices, lots of slurping will be heard, which is considered quite acceptable.

To compliment the fish, an array of breads will be served including the traditional hard bread knäkerbröd, and a variety of cheeses including västerbotten. Shots of schnapps and numerous drinking songs including Helan Går ensure that all have a good party, often into the early hours of the following morning.

This was my first experience of the Swedish kräftskiva and, whilst I was unable to attend a full-blown party, I was treated to the tradition by my partner Mik’s mother, albeit on a small scale and with just he and his father singing the songs. My comprehension of the language only lends me to singing ‘Heads, shoulders, knees and toes’, at present.

Our miniature party was held at the family’s summerhouse on the island of Rindö, a former military base and one of the 24,000 islands that form Stockholm’s archipelago. The setting is wonderful and from here you can see the archipelago come alive, with everyone out on their boats, fishing, wake boarding or just enjoying a trip along the beautiful waters. It cannot fail to delight you, particularly on a summer’s day. I love to just sit and read down by the water and am lucky enough to be able to enjoy such trips on the family boat. For visitors to Stockholm, there are many white steamers or modern vessels, which I have often seen out on the water, giving visitors a taste of the beautiful archipelago. A drink outside a bar on one of the many islands is a perfect way to finish your day.

Next to Rindö is the island of Waxholm, this charming town is closest to Stockholm’s centre and a lovely place for a day trip. About a one-hour boat trip from Stockholm, Waxholm is popular with tourists. Mik and I take the ferry from Waxholm to get to Rindö and frequently stop here for an ice cream from the little corner shop, by the water, where you can choose from many different flavours and it comes highly recommended from both of us.

Earlier in the weekend we made a visit to Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s old town, for lunch and a deliberate shopping trip to a place that hand makes leather sandals. Here I was treated to a lovely pair of sandals, which have been worn on several occasions since.

Gamla Stan is filled with tourists in the summer, particularly as this is where the palace (left), home to Sweden’s royal family, is also located. In the narrow streets, the volume of people can become a bit too much. Nevertheless, the sight of royal finery wherever it is seen never fails to delight me, particularly if there are horses involved. On this occasion, I was lucky enough to see many of King Carl XVI Gustav’s horses and men, as they left Drottningholm Palace.

Off-season a visit to Gamla Stan is, in my opinion, a more pleasant experience and there are many cafes to warm up in if it is a little cold.

Stockholm, for me, provides the luxuries of a city, with the relaxation of the great out doors just moments away - and the crayfish is fantastic.

Cox & Kings offers short breaks to Stockholm, staying at the Grand Hotel. 3 nights starts from £345 per person, including flights, transfers and bed and breakfast.

Pura Vida!

Latin America Consultants Katie Parsons (far left) and Ariane Mick de Vizcaino (far right) recently visited Costa Rica with Cox & Kings and Katie discovered a country teeming with diverse wildlife.

Not being an avid birdwatcher or nature enthusiast one thing I didn’t expect to find myself doing in Costa Rica was getting up at 5 am to go looking for the elusive quetzal. But such is the incredible diversity of flora and fauna it is almost impossible not to become absorbed. If the bilingual guides, who can spot the smallest flower or bird long before anyone else, don’t know the answer to a question about the plants and animals, then it isn’t worth knowing.

Tortuguero National Park
There are 25 National Parks in Costa Rica, and the Ticos (the name Costa Ricans give themselves) enjoy their claim that 25% of the country is protected by the government. Tortuguero National Park, named because of the large population of Leatherback turtles that nest on the beaches between June and September, is jungle on the Caribbean coast and unlike the other parts of the country there is no dry season - in fact it is one of the wettest areas in the country. Although seeing the baby turtles hatching is obviously a key attraction, a visit is more than worthwhile anytime of year as there are plenty of other species of plant and wildlife to be found; on a boat trip along the canals we saw caiman, iguana, green parrot, different types of monkey, frogs, birds and a Jesus Christ Lizard, so named because of its ability to walk on water. Many of the modern conveniences of normal city hotels are left behind here, although our lodge did provide a free but very early morning wake up call: on-site howler monkeys!

Arenal Volcano National Park
Arenal Volcano National Park is 80 miles to the north of San Jose but the drive is very scenic and passes the less active volcano of Poas. Until 1968 the Arenal Volcano was believed to be extinct. Since then there have been frequent eruptions and the area has developed into one of the most popular tourist attractions in Costa Rica as visitors flock to the natural hot springs and to see the almost nightly lava spectacular. We signed up for our hotel’s ‘lava wake-up call’, went to bed and hoped for the best. Unfortunately it wasn’t our lucky night and the only wake-up was from the alarm clock.

Kioro Springs
Primary cloud forest and rainforest cover Arenal National Park with an abundance of flora and fauna species in multiple life zones, innumerable rivers, waterfalls and thermal hot springs. Several of the hotel resorts have their own on-site hot springs. The Tabacon Resort has some of the most popular springs in the area but are not exclusive to hotel guests and resemble more a Disney-esque theme park than a place to relax and unwind. The private springs for guests close to the Kioro hotel are far more tranquil and exclusive. Some of the springs are too hot to stay in for too long, but rather like Goldilocks you can pick and choose until you find one that is not too hot and not too cold.

Monteverde Cloud Forest
Located up in the mountains at an altitude of 1440m (4662ft) Monteverde is known as a cloud forest rather than a rain forest because the clouds go through the forest. The rainy season runs from May to October but this doesn’t mean it never rains at other times! The Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve is a non-governmental, private non-profit reserve containing 6 distinct ecological zones. The canopy is extremely rich with birds, insects, butterflies, and thousands of plants. The nearby Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve is a smaller reserve but offers similar flora and fauna and far less visitors. The best way to appreciate the cloud forest is to walk along the trails with your guide and a pair of binoculars.

Sighting the Quetzal
Driving south from San Jose along the Pan-American Highway, the road climbs high into the Cerro de la Muerte mountains. The village of San Gerardo de Dota is located in a picturesque valley on the western slopes and has a plethora of plant and bird species. It is also the primary habitat of the quetzal, the most famous of all Costa Rican birds. The Resplendent Quetzal features heavily in the pre-Columbian civilisations of Central America and was revered by the Mayans and Atzecs who believed the bird to be the god of the air and a symbol of goodness and light. The Mayan rulers wore headdresses made of the vibrant green tail feathers to connect them symbolically with Quetzalcoatl, the god of creation and wind. The bird can be seen most of the year but is more frequently found in the breeding season of April and May, amongst the avocado trees (its favourite food). We were lucky enough to see a mother and baby Quetzal before the male flew back to complete the set. Very satisfying after such an early start!

The Pacific Coastline: Playa Grande
The Pacific coastline offers 3 distinct areas for wildlife protection. On the northern peninsula Playa Grande is thought to be one of the most significant nesting sites in the world for the baula, or leatherback turtle. However, despite the ever-increasing efforts to protect the turtles, fewer leatherbacks are nesting on the beaches. Between December and April it is possible to visit the beach during the night on a guided tour to watch the hatching of the baby turtles. The beaches around the town of Tamarindo are some of the finest in Costa Rica, and are ideal for sunbathing with a freshly-made cocktail.

The Pacific Coastline: Manuel Antonio National Park

On the centre of the Pacific coast lies Manuel Antonio National Park, the second smallest but perhaps most visited national park in the country. Thickly forested volcanic hillsides rise steeply from the shoreline, which provide stunning views and plenty of walking opportunities. These tropical forests are home to a range of animals including different species of monkeys, toucans, iguanas, sloths and scarlet macaws and the beaches provide homes for a number of sea birds.

The Pacific Coastline: Corcovado National Park
Situated on the very southern stretch of Costa Rica’s Pacific coast, the Osa Peninsula and the Corcovado National Park are home to the largest population of scarlet macaw in the country as well as many endangered animals such as giant anteaters, Baird’s tapir and the harpy eagle. In the surrounding water of the Pacific Ocean and the Golfo Dulce dolphins and whales can also be seen. These, and the countless other species of fauna and flora have led the area to be considered by National Geographic as ‘the most biologically intense place on earth’. Here beautiful and remote lodges allow visitors to experience nature away from the crowds.

Nature lovers will adore Costa Rica, and those with even the most minor interest in birds will find themselves inspired to get out of bed at 5am, pick up a pair of binoculars and go out in search of the quetzal.

Cox & Kings' 9-night Natural Splendours of Costa Rica group tour explores the highlights including Tortuguero, Arenal and Monteverde Cloud Forest, and starts from £1,445 per person.

A Patagonian Adventure

This October, whilst most of us are enjoying the last few warm days of our Indian Summer (it's best to remain optimistic) former Cox & Kings employee Pablo Basombrio will be braving the icy conditions of Patagonia, located in the southern tip of South America, on an expedition to traverse the continent. Pablo is attempting to cross Patagonia from the Pacific Ocean to the Atlantic Ocean, along more than 660 kilometres of fjords, lakes and ice-caps. If successful it will be the first such crossing without external support.

Pablo and his brother Juan will first navigate the Chilean fjords to penetrate the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in their double kayak. Next they will pull the kayak as a sledge across 330km of snow, ice and crevasses, to reach Upsala Glacier. Finally, and paddling again, they will cross Lake Argentino and descend the Santa Cruz river to the Atlantic Ocean. The route follows the journey made by legendary explorer Eric Shipton in 1960/61, although the fact he approached the ice by ship is what makes this expedition, using a kayak, a unique crossing from Pacific to Atlantic.

For more information on the expedition please click here.

Pablo has organised and led two big expeditions before; Cape Horn in 1999 and Isla de los Estados in 2001. Currently living in South London, Pablo has been preparing for the expedition by taking kayak sessions at Richmond Canoe Club, as well as walking with a 15kg rucksack whilst pulling a sledge made out of car tyres around Bushy Park, which must be an unusual sight for the locals.

“We have been training and preparing for this challenging expedition for two years now,” said Pablo, who is still appealing for sponsors to help with the costs of the expedition. “This biggest challenge is likely to be the weather, which in this area is often described as the worst in the world. Winds easily surpass 100kmh and temperatures fall well below sub zero. Added to that the challenge posed by giant crevasses hidden by the snow, and it is easy to see why this region is so under-explored.”

Good luck from all at Cox & Kings Pablo.

Beijing: A Culinary Tour

PR Executive Laura Smith recently accompanied a small group of journalists on a press trip to Beijing, to experience the new Raffles property there. Here she puts together an account of some of her more memorable eating experiences during her stay.

Jaan Restaurant, Raffles Hotel
On our first night in Beijing, our group sat down to dinner at the Raffles Hotel’s French restaurant, Jaan. We’d flown in from London overnight, and the combination of jetlag and general lack of sleep was beginning to take its toll on all of us. I was looking forward to a quick dinner and an early night.

The eight-course extravaganza that followed lasted more than five hours. After four slightly-larger-than-starter-sized meals of varying descriptions – including a salad, chicken stew and two delicious soups: asparagus and lobster - a tall cocktail glass arrived with a ruby red filling. Phew, I thought, dessert has arrived. But one mouthful told me that this was just the palette cleanser – a red wine flavoured Slush Puppie. The main course, two desserts and cheeses were yet to come…

But actually I was thankful. The piece de resistance was the main course: succulent roast lamb, pink and tender, served with perfect potatoes and a light gravy. I certainly wasn’t expecting good French food in China.

Green T. House
There is just one long sleek black table in the centre of the restaurant, with impossibly high seat backs that stretch up towards the ceiling like something out of Lord of the Rings. Here, food is an art, with the emphasis on presentation. The small touches make the Green T. House extra special – courses are served on large palm tree fronds, champagne flutes are filled with tiny glass beads, and extra long wooden chopsticks rest on painted Penjing branches.

At the Green T. House, every dish - whether salad, soup, meat or fish - uses green tea as an ingredient. The Chinese have appreciated the benefits of tea for centuries and, much like the Brits, they nigh on worship it. No builders’ brews here, though. The golden, fragrant tea is served from large china teapots, infused with rose petals and stirred with powdery cinnamon sticks rather than teaspoons.

Our nine-course feast began with individual slices of crisp Asian pear, topped with a green tea and mustard sauce, with a sprinkling of walnut pieces and crumbled goats’ cheese. Wow. These were so delicious, I could have devoured an entire platter full, but the length of the menu reminded me not to be too greedy. We then had huge king prawns, which had been dressed in (what else?) green tea and enough hot wasabi to make your eyes water before being rolled in what looked like smashed up corn flakes. Several other courses followed, all carefully planned and well-executed, and each dish looking like an entry for an art competition. The restaurant’s creator Jin R is an artist and musician first, restaurateur and chef second, and her artistic roots certainly shine through in her cuisine. We were lucky enough to meet Jin R, and her talent, beauty and utter modesty left me, well, green.

The dessert was simple but beautifully presented. Scoops of ice cream in different colours and flavours were arranged on a mound of steaming dry ice around a central golden Buddha figure. Undoubtedly one of the best restaurants I have ever visited.

The Commune
The Commune is an interesting minimalist building located in the hills around the Great Wall of China. Owned by Kempinski, the hotel features ten guest lodges in vast grounds, each with stunning views of the mountains and the Great Wall of China.

The restaurant at the Commune is much like an art museum. The white walls and clean lines of the hotel’s interiors provide a stark contrast to the stunning natural landscapes that paint the windows. The Great Wall gives you that ‘pinch me, I’m really here’ feeling, as though you’ve stepped inside a postcard. To be able to see it as you eat lunch is fantastic.

The food at the Commune was more like Chinese food as we know it - various meat dishes, stir-fried vegetables and special fried rice (albeit a little more ‘special’ than the kind you get in the all-you-can-eat buffets in Soho). There were some unusual dishes too, like pickled melon, and chicken pancakes. Another day, another delicious meal…

The Food Markets
We saw a completely different dining experience taking place here - not that I can comment on the taste of the food. Amongst normal-looking chicken satay sticks stood rows of starfish, beetles and lizards on sticks, as well as live beetles and mini-scorpions just waiting to be eaten. Now, I’ve eaten some strange things in my time but live beetles are different. And lizards? No, thank you.

The Best of the Rest
Other eateries we visited included Dadong Peking Duck Restaurant, whose crispy duck pancakes were superb, and Raffles’ East 33, a buffet-style Asian fusion restaurant with an enormous range of food. To my relief, they also offered full English and Continental breakfasts - raw fish, hoi sin and wasabi can be a bit too much in the morning.

The Dining Experience
Each restaurant in Beijing provided us with a (long) menu; but rather than indicating a list of different meals to choose from, these just point out the array of courses you will be brought, like it or not. At first I felt frustrated that I could not choose my dinner, and could not limit myself to three, even four courses. But there’s something wonderful about having the responsibility taken away in a restaurant. Dining out is a far more relaxing experience without 20 minutes spent agonising over a four-page menu; when you haven’t the worry of “will I like it?”, “perhaps I should have gone for the chicken”, or “so-and-so’s dinner looks better than mine”. Eating together was a social event for our group, and we loved sharing the experiences of the dishes, discussing the different flavours and combinations.

Cox & Kings offers a comprehensive programme to China. Click here to view our options, or call 020 7873 5000 to speak to one of our Far East experts.

Fez and Marrakech

Operations Executive Emily Plumley (below left) recently travelled to Morocco with Agency Sales Manager Catherine Standring.

An exotic destination just a three-hour flight from London sounds too good to be true - except it is not a dream but a reality, a country by the name of Morocco.

Morocco is a hugely diverse country with beaches, mountain ranges, cities and desert. The people are most welcoming and friendly and their culture and customs fascinating.

There are two main races in Morocco, the Moroccan Arabs and the Berbers. The Berbers are Morocco’s original inhabitants and still form more than half of the population. They have their own language and mostly live in rural areas in stone houses perched on rocky slopes, overlooking their cultivated terraced fields.

Catherine and I visited two cities in Morocco; Marrakech and Fez. Marrakech, our first stop, is a vibrant, lively and colourful city which has much to offer the visitor. Here you can notice a western influence, in particular amongst the men, and it is now acceptable for women to bare their shoulders in public. Despite this, long skirts that cover the knee should still be worn.

Djemaa el-Fna is Marrakech’s main square where all the action happens. During the day, there are sellers with their fruit and vegetables, but from around 5pm when the weather cools and the sun is setting is when it really comes to life. There are snake charmers, storytellers, fortunetellers, dancers all selling their talents to locals and tourists alike. The square also becomes a large open-air restaurant with a variety of foods to choose from and outdoor seating. Koutoubia Minaret, the famous landmark of the local skyline, dominates one end of the square.

Our accommodation in Marrakech was based in Riads, which are unique to Morocco. Originally houses built for large families, riads are typically plain on the outside but beautiful on the inside where the main feature is a courtyard with plants, flowers and a fountain. All the rooms face inwards towards the courtyard and the fountains are often decorated with roses in the water. Riads are more intimate than your normal hotel; some have a very romantic setting. I found the whole experience of staying in a Riad luxurious and comfortable.

From Marrakech to Fez, we drove through the Atlas Mountains, which offer a spectacular scenery of snow-capped mountains, even in the height of summer.

Fez is quieter and less hectic than Marrakech. Here we enjoyed wandering the souqs, although I would recommend a guide for your first time visiting them because it is very easy to get lost, there being over 30,000 shops! It is very interesting to wander around them; the sights, sounds and smells are something else! You will see craftsmen working and making their goods using traditional tools and methods that have been used for centuries.

The tanneries in Fez are also well worth a visit; you are offered a sprig of mint on entry as the smell can be a little overwhelming because they use ammonia from pigeon droppings in the cleaning process, but the view from above is stunning and well worth it.
I could go on to tell you more about the things Catherine and I did and saw in Morocco but that would spoil it for you. I have only scratched the surface but invite you to visit Morocco yourself and see what an exotic destination Morocco really is.

Click here to view our private journey to Fez and Marrakech.

New Seven Wonders of the World Results

On Saturday 7 July 2007 the results of the new Seven Wonders of the World were announced in Lisbon after months of public voting. The seven wonders chosen were:

Chichen Itza, Mexico
Christ the Redeemer, Brazil

The Great Wall, China

Machu Picchu, Peru

Petra, Jordan

The Roman Colloseum, Italy

The Taj Mahal, India

We can offer tours to see all of the new seven wonders, click here to browse our website.

Vote Closing for New Seven Wonders of the World

Voting ends at midnight tonight in a huge poll to choose the seven modern wonders of the world. The results will be announced in a special ceremony in Lisbon tomorrow (07/07/07), with Machu Picchu, the Colosseum and the Great Wall of China leading the way so far. The project was started by Swiss explorer Bernard Weber, and so far 90 million votes have been cast to choose the 7 wonders from a shortlist of 20. Many tourist boards have been promoting the idea, with Mexico, Peru and Jordan in particular appealing for votes for Chichen Itza, Machu Picchu and Petra respectively.

You can vote for your modern wonder here.

Visit the Cox & Kings blog next week to see the full results.

Zambia in the Green Season

Africa Tour Consultant Anna Flood recently travelled to Zambia in the Green Season.

For the discerning African traveller, Zambia has it all: national parks teeming with wildlife, historical manor houses built in the 1920s, and one of the seven natural wonders of the world, Victoria Falls. What’s more, it is possible to see all of this in an unforgettable two weeks that will leave you hungry to come back for more.

Walking gingerly across a dry riverbed trying not to disturb a lone bull elephant was one of the most exhilarating bush experiences I have ever had. Robin Pope runs a series of ‘Mobile Safaris’ guided by Debs and her team. They are not only exciting, engaging and enjoyable, but also incredibly comfortable. Leaving the car behind means you are one step closer to the animals and to understanding what life in the bush is like.

All the main Robin Pope camps are exquisite in their own way: the opulence of Luangwa House; the history at Nsefu (the very first camp in the park); and the superb tented Tena Tena. The attention to detail, the staff and the superb settings over the Luangwa River are second to none. Despite this, camping by a dry riverbed and sitting round the fire talking to Debs about her life and the park was definitely the highlight for me. The tents are spacious and, with a hot shower and proper facilities, it is a far cry from the images camping usually conjure up. The walking is easy going, the guiding faultless and, with tea-breaks and the knowledge of a back-up vehicle on the end of a radio should you get tired, everything is taken care of.

South Luangwa is famous for, amongst other things, its high concentration of leopard. If you are in search of this elusive cat, this is the place to go. The BBC did not spend two years here filming a leopard documentary for nothing. Even in the lush green season when these cats are much harder to spot, we had two excellent sightings and saw evidence of much more activity in all areas of the park. Watching this incredible predator slink her way through the grasslands was mesmerising. The movement of her body was so fluid and graceful and the balance of the long tail is quite incredible - my first leopard is a moment I shall never forget.

Leaving behind Robin Pope, I set off to John Coppingers camp, Tafika, in the far northern section of the park. John and his wife run a great camp; here you really get a sense of going back to nature. The accommodation is constructed from locally-sourced reed and thatch huts that John and his team re-build ever year, and along with that come a few natural friends. All beds are covered by mosquito nets to stop any creepy-crawlies getting too close for comfort. Occupying another majestical river setting, it was sometimes hard to drag myself away from the strategically placed sun loungers scattered around the grounds.

The quality of the kitchen’s garden and chef was evident at every meal as we were spoilt with homegrown vegetables, freshly made quiches and desserts. You really get a sense of community involvement in the camp - John’s hard work over the years has evidently paid off. Another of Takifa’s attractions is John’s micro-light. He will take you out to see the bush from a different perspective. Swooping down over the Luangwa River is the one time you will witness the mighty crocodile running for cover, and to see the game from above is a truly memorable experience.

I left South Luangwa and headed north to Shiwa Ng’andu. Shiwa is an English Country Manor in deepest darkest Zambia. It tells the story of one man, his love and his struggle to create his dream in Africa. In the 1920s, Sir Stewart Gore-Browne began creating this estate and by 1935 it was a thriving lifeline for the local community. Unfortunately, Gore-Browne’s life was not the fairy tale he had wished for, and over time the house fell into disrepair due to tragic circumstances. Today, however, the dream is alive once more, as his wife Jo and grandson Charlie have taken over management of the estate.
With the monumental task of rebuilding the manor, you cannot help but admire the determination and energy of these two people. In a house large enough to have 27 fireplaces and several wings, the work will keep them busy for years to come. They are re-building dilapidated parts of the house using the original method: by hand making all the bricks on the estate. It is really is an incredible place with a thousand stories to tell and, thanks to the work of Charlie and Jo, Shiwa once again has a bright future. We climbed one of the peaks behind the house that Livingstone climbed when he first arrived in Zambia. Seeing the bush stretching out below I realised why Gore Browne fell in love with this part of the world and made it his home.

Leaving this incredible piece of history we flew down to Victoria Falls, ‘The Smoke That Thunders’. You will never truly be able to understand this phrase until you see this monumental sight for your selves. As we approached, our pilot flew over the falls for us and we could see the snake-like rock formation that has been produced over thousands of years of erosion. The sheer power of the water forces its way through the weakest parts of the rock, and ends in this mighty drop.

I stayed at Tongabezi, where the contrast to the falls is quite striking. The calmness and tranquillity of the Zambezi River, gently meandering down to the falls, is a stark contrast to the frenetic activity and movement of the water further downstream. Sitting on the veranda of the garden cottage, or dining on the deck by the river’s edge, it is hard to imagine that further downstream 500 million litres of water are crashing down a 108 metre gorge every second. With numerous activities available, such as sunset cruises, island dining and trips to Mosi-os-Tunya Game Park as well as more adrenaline filled ones, you can choose to be as relaxed or as active as the river, depending on your mood.

Cox & Kings offers the following options in Zambia, which use Robin Pope camps in the South Luangwa: Zambia: A Robin Pope Safari, Classic Zambia: Two Rivers Safari and Zambia & Lake Malawi. Cox & Kings can also arrange tailor-made tours throughout Zambia.