Crayfish Party

Quality Control Executive Heather Fitsell recently visited Stockholm and experienced her first crayfish party.

In Sweden, August is the month of kräftskiva, which roughly translates into English as ‘crayfish party’. These parties are a veritable feast of food, washed down with copious amount of schnapps and beer.

A relatively modern tradition, kräftskiva was introduced in the early 20th Century. As a result of over-fishing in Swedish waters, the crayfish season was reduced to just two months, meaning it soon became a much sought-after delicacy. Today, visitors to Stockholm can enjoy crayfish in many of the city’s restaurants, as it is now available year round.

Traditionally, Swede’s hang up paper lanterns and dress their tables with matching plates, napkins, tablecloths and hats, before devouring bowls of crayfish. The crayfish is eaten cold, having been marinated in brine and dill. In order to extract the most meat and juices, lots of slurping will be heard, which is considered quite acceptable.

To compliment the fish, an array of breads will be served including the traditional hard bread knäkerbröd, and a variety of cheeses including västerbotten. Shots of schnapps and numerous drinking songs including Helan Går ensure that all have a good party, often into the early hours of the following morning.

This was my first experience of the Swedish kräftskiva and, whilst I was unable to attend a full-blown party, I was treated to the tradition by my partner Mik’s mother, albeit on a small scale and with just he and his father singing the songs. My comprehension of the language only lends me to singing ‘Heads, shoulders, knees and toes’, at present.

Our miniature party was held at the family’s summerhouse on the island of Rindö, a former military base and one of the 24,000 islands that form Stockholm’s archipelago. The setting is wonderful and from here you can see the archipelago come alive, with everyone out on their boats, fishing, wake boarding or just enjoying a trip along the beautiful waters. It cannot fail to delight you, particularly on a summer’s day. I love to just sit and read down by the water and am lucky enough to be able to enjoy such trips on the family boat. For visitors to Stockholm, there are many white steamers or modern vessels, which I have often seen out on the water, giving visitors a taste of the beautiful archipelago. A drink outside a bar on one of the many islands is a perfect way to finish your day.

Next to Rindö is the island of Waxholm, this charming town is closest to Stockholm’s centre and a lovely place for a day trip. About a one-hour boat trip from Stockholm, Waxholm is popular with tourists. Mik and I take the ferry from Waxholm to get to Rindö and frequently stop here for an ice cream from the little corner shop, by the water, where you can choose from many different flavours and it comes highly recommended from both of us.

Earlier in the weekend we made a visit to Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s old town, for lunch and a deliberate shopping trip to a place that hand makes leather sandals. Here I was treated to a lovely pair of sandals, which have been worn on several occasions since.

Gamla Stan is filled with tourists in the summer, particularly as this is where the palace (left), home to Sweden’s royal family, is also located. In the narrow streets, the volume of people can become a bit too much. Nevertheless, the sight of royal finery wherever it is seen never fails to delight me, particularly if there are horses involved. On this occasion, I was lucky enough to see many of King Carl XVI Gustav’s horses and men, as they left Drottningholm Palace.

Off-season a visit to Gamla Stan is, in my opinion, a more pleasant experience and there are many cafes to warm up in if it is a little cold.

Stockholm, for me, provides the luxuries of a city, with the relaxation of the great out doors just moments away - and the crayfish is fantastic.

Cox & Kings offers short breaks to Stockholm, staying at the Grand Hotel. 3 nights starts from £345 per person, including flights, transfers and bed and breakfast.

Pura Vida!

Latin America Consultants Katie Parsons (far left) and Ariane Mick de Vizcaino (far right) recently visited Costa Rica with Cox & Kings and Katie discovered a country teeming with diverse wildlife.

Not being an avid birdwatcher or nature enthusiast one thing I didn’t expect to find myself doing in Costa Rica was getting up at 5 am to go looking for the elusive quetzal. But such is the incredible diversity of flora and fauna it is almost impossible not to become absorbed. If the bilingual guides, who can spot the smallest flower or bird long before anyone else, don’t know the answer to a question about the plants and animals, then it isn’t worth knowing.

Tortuguero National Park
There are 25 National Parks in Costa Rica, and the Ticos (the name Costa Ricans give themselves) enjoy their claim that 25% of the country is protected by the government. Tortuguero National Park, named because of the large population of Leatherback turtles that nest on the beaches between June and September, is jungle on the Caribbean coast and unlike the other parts of the country there is no dry season - in fact it is one of the wettest areas in the country. Although seeing the baby turtles hatching is obviously a key attraction, a visit is more than worthwhile anytime of year as there are plenty of other species of plant and wildlife to be found; on a boat trip along the canals we saw caiman, iguana, green parrot, different types of monkey, frogs, birds and a Jesus Christ Lizard, so named because of its ability to walk on water. Many of the modern conveniences of normal city hotels are left behind here, although our lodge did provide a free but very early morning wake up call: on-site howler monkeys!

Arenal Volcano National Park
Arenal Volcano National Park is 80 miles to the north of San Jose but the drive is very scenic and passes the less active volcano of Poas. Until 1968 the Arenal Volcano was believed to be extinct. Since then there have been frequent eruptions and the area has developed into one of the most popular tourist attractions in Costa Rica as visitors flock to the natural hot springs and to see the almost nightly lava spectacular. We signed up for our hotel’s ‘lava wake-up call’, went to bed and hoped for the best. Unfortunately it wasn’t our lucky night and the only wake-up was from the alarm clock.

Kioro Springs
Primary cloud forest and rainforest cover Arenal National Park with an abundance of flora and fauna species in multiple life zones, innumerable rivers, waterfalls and thermal hot springs. Several of the hotel resorts have their own on-site hot springs. The Tabacon Resort has some of the most popular springs in the area but are not exclusive to hotel guests and resemble more a Disney-esque theme park than a place to relax and unwind. The private springs for guests close to the Kioro hotel are far more tranquil and exclusive. Some of the springs are too hot to stay in for too long, but rather like Goldilocks you can pick and choose until you find one that is not too hot and not too cold.

Monteverde Cloud Forest
Located up in the mountains at an altitude of 1440m (4662ft) Monteverde is known as a cloud forest rather than a rain forest because the clouds go through the forest. The rainy season runs from May to October but this doesn’t mean it never rains at other times! The Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve is a non-governmental, private non-profit reserve containing 6 distinct ecological zones. The canopy is extremely rich with birds, insects, butterflies, and thousands of plants. The nearby Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve is a smaller reserve but offers similar flora and fauna and far less visitors. The best way to appreciate the cloud forest is to walk along the trails with your guide and a pair of binoculars.

Sighting the Quetzal
Driving south from San Jose along the Pan-American Highway, the road climbs high into the Cerro de la Muerte mountains. The village of San Gerardo de Dota is located in a picturesque valley on the western slopes and has a plethora of plant and bird species. It is also the primary habitat of the quetzal, the most famous of all Costa Rican birds. The Resplendent Quetzal features heavily in the pre-Columbian civilisations of Central America and was revered by the Mayans and Atzecs who believed the bird to be the god of the air and a symbol of goodness and light. The Mayan rulers wore headdresses made of the vibrant green tail feathers to connect them symbolically with Quetzalcoatl, the god of creation and wind. The bird can be seen most of the year but is more frequently found in the breeding season of April and May, amongst the avocado trees (its favourite food). We were lucky enough to see a mother and baby Quetzal before the male flew back to complete the set. Very satisfying after such an early start!

The Pacific Coastline: Playa Grande
The Pacific coastline offers 3 distinct areas for wildlife protection. On the northern peninsula Playa Grande is thought to be one of the most significant nesting sites in the world for the baula, or leatherback turtle. However, despite the ever-increasing efforts to protect the turtles, fewer leatherbacks are nesting on the beaches. Between December and April it is possible to visit the beach during the night on a guided tour to watch the hatching of the baby turtles. The beaches around the town of Tamarindo are some of the finest in Costa Rica, and are ideal for sunbathing with a freshly-made cocktail.

The Pacific Coastline: Manuel Antonio National Park

On the centre of the Pacific coast lies Manuel Antonio National Park, the second smallest but perhaps most visited national park in the country. Thickly forested volcanic hillsides rise steeply from the shoreline, which provide stunning views and plenty of walking opportunities. These tropical forests are home to a range of animals including different species of monkeys, toucans, iguanas, sloths and scarlet macaws and the beaches provide homes for a number of sea birds.

The Pacific Coastline: Corcovado National Park
Situated on the very southern stretch of Costa Rica’s Pacific coast, the Osa Peninsula and the Corcovado National Park are home to the largest population of scarlet macaw in the country as well as many endangered animals such as giant anteaters, Baird’s tapir and the harpy eagle. In the surrounding water of the Pacific Ocean and the Golfo Dulce dolphins and whales can also be seen. These, and the countless other species of fauna and flora have led the area to be considered by National Geographic as ‘the most biologically intense place on earth’. Here beautiful and remote lodges allow visitors to experience nature away from the crowds.

Nature lovers will adore Costa Rica, and those with even the most minor interest in birds will find themselves inspired to get out of bed at 5am, pick up a pair of binoculars and go out in search of the quetzal.

Cox & Kings' 9-night Natural Splendours of Costa Rica group tour explores the highlights including Tortuguero, Arenal and Monteverde Cloud Forest, and starts from £1,445 per person.

A Patagonian Adventure

This October, whilst most of us are enjoying the last few warm days of our Indian Summer (it's best to remain optimistic) former Cox & Kings employee Pablo Basombrio will be braving the icy conditions of Patagonia, located in the southern tip of South America, on an expedition to traverse the continent. Pablo is attempting to cross Patagonia from the Pacific Ocean to the Atlantic Ocean, along more than 660 kilometres of fjords, lakes and ice-caps. If successful it will be the first such crossing without external support.

Pablo and his brother Juan will first navigate the Chilean fjords to penetrate the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in their double kayak. Next they will pull the kayak as a sledge across 330km of snow, ice and crevasses, to reach Upsala Glacier. Finally, and paddling again, they will cross Lake Argentino and descend the Santa Cruz river to the Atlantic Ocean. The route follows the journey made by legendary explorer Eric Shipton in 1960/61, although the fact he approached the ice by ship is what makes this expedition, using a kayak, a unique crossing from Pacific to Atlantic.

For more information on the expedition please click here.

Pablo has organised and led two big expeditions before; Cape Horn in 1999 and Isla de los Estados in 2001. Currently living in South London, Pablo has been preparing for the expedition by taking kayak sessions at Richmond Canoe Club, as well as walking with a 15kg rucksack whilst pulling a sledge made out of car tyres around Bushy Park, which must be an unusual sight for the locals.

“We have been training and preparing for this challenging expedition for two years now,” said Pablo, who is still appealing for sponsors to help with the costs of the expedition. “This biggest challenge is likely to be the weather, which in this area is often described as the worst in the world. Winds easily surpass 100kmh and temperatures fall well below sub zero. Added to that the challenge posed by giant crevasses hidden by the snow, and it is easy to see why this region is so under-explored.”

Good luck from all at Cox & Kings Pablo.

Beijing: A Culinary Tour

PR Executive Laura Smith recently accompanied a small group of journalists on a press trip to Beijing, to experience the new Raffles property there. Here she puts together an account of some of her more memorable eating experiences during her stay.

Jaan Restaurant, Raffles Hotel
On our first night in Beijing, our group sat down to dinner at the Raffles Hotel’s French restaurant, Jaan. We’d flown in from London overnight, and the combination of jetlag and general lack of sleep was beginning to take its toll on all of us. I was looking forward to a quick dinner and an early night.

The eight-course extravaganza that followed lasted more than five hours. After four slightly-larger-than-starter-sized meals of varying descriptions – including a salad, chicken stew and two delicious soups: asparagus and lobster - a tall cocktail glass arrived with a ruby red filling. Phew, I thought, dessert has arrived. But one mouthful told me that this was just the palette cleanser – a red wine flavoured Slush Puppie. The main course, two desserts and cheeses were yet to come…

But actually I was thankful. The piece de resistance was the main course: succulent roast lamb, pink and tender, served with perfect potatoes and a light gravy. I certainly wasn’t expecting good French food in China.

Green T. House
There is just one long sleek black table in the centre of the restaurant, with impossibly high seat backs that stretch up towards the ceiling like something out of Lord of the Rings. Here, food is an art, with the emphasis on presentation. The small touches make the Green T. House extra special – courses are served on large palm tree fronds, champagne flutes are filled with tiny glass beads, and extra long wooden chopsticks rest on painted Penjing branches.

At the Green T. House, every dish - whether salad, soup, meat or fish - uses green tea as an ingredient. The Chinese have appreciated the benefits of tea for centuries and, much like the Brits, they nigh on worship it. No builders’ brews here, though. The golden, fragrant tea is served from large china teapots, infused with rose petals and stirred with powdery cinnamon sticks rather than teaspoons.

Our nine-course feast began with individual slices of crisp Asian pear, topped with a green tea and mustard sauce, with a sprinkling of walnut pieces and crumbled goats’ cheese. Wow. These were so delicious, I could have devoured an entire platter full, but the length of the menu reminded me not to be too greedy. We then had huge king prawns, which had been dressed in (what else?) green tea and enough hot wasabi to make your eyes water before being rolled in what looked like smashed up corn flakes. Several other courses followed, all carefully planned and well-executed, and each dish looking like an entry for an art competition. The restaurant’s creator Jin R is an artist and musician first, restaurateur and chef second, and her artistic roots certainly shine through in her cuisine. We were lucky enough to meet Jin R, and her talent, beauty and utter modesty left me, well, green.

The dessert was simple but beautifully presented. Scoops of ice cream in different colours and flavours were arranged on a mound of steaming dry ice around a central golden Buddha figure. Undoubtedly one of the best restaurants I have ever visited.

The Commune
The Commune is an interesting minimalist building located in the hills around the Great Wall of China. Owned by Kempinski, the hotel features ten guest lodges in vast grounds, each with stunning views of the mountains and the Great Wall of China.

The restaurant at the Commune is much like an art museum. The white walls and clean lines of the hotel’s interiors provide a stark contrast to the stunning natural landscapes that paint the windows. The Great Wall gives you that ‘pinch me, I’m really here’ feeling, as though you’ve stepped inside a postcard. To be able to see it as you eat lunch is fantastic.

The food at the Commune was more like Chinese food as we know it - various meat dishes, stir-fried vegetables and special fried rice (albeit a little more ‘special’ than the kind you get in the all-you-can-eat buffets in Soho). There were some unusual dishes too, like pickled melon, and chicken pancakes. Another day, another delicious meal…

The Food Markets
We saw a completely different dining experience taking place here - not that I can comment on the taste of the food. Amongst normal-looking chicken satay sticks stood rows of starfish, beetles and lizards on sticks, as well as live beetles and mini-scorpions just waiting to be eaten. Now, I’ve eaten some strange things in my time but live beetles are different. And lizards? No, thank you.

The Best of the Rest
Other eateries we visited included Dadong Peking Duck Restaurant, whose crispy duck pancakes were superb, and Raffles’ East 33, a buffet-style Asian fusion restaurant with an enormous range of food. To my relief, they also offered full English and Continental breakfasts - raw fish, hoi sin and wasabi can be a bit too much in the morning.

The Dining Experience
Each restaurant in Beijing provided us with a (long) menu; but rather than indicating a list of different meals to choose from, these just point out the array of courses you will be brought, like it or not. At first I felt frustrated that I could not choose my dinner, and could not limit myself to three, even four courses. But there’s something wonderful about having the responsibility taken away in a restaurant. Dining out is a far more relaxing experience without 20 minutes spent agonising over a four-page menu; when you haven’t the worry of “will I like it?”, “perhaps I should have gone for the chicken”, or “so-and-so’s dinner looks better than mine”. Eating together was a social event for our group, and we loved sharing the experiences of the dishes, discussing the different flavours and combinations.

Cox & Kings offers a comprehensive programme to China. Click here to view our options, or call 020 7873 5000 to speak to one of our Far East experts.

Fez and Marrakech

Operations Executive Emily Plumley (below left) recently travelled to Morocco with Agency Sales Manager Catherine Standring.

An exotic destination just a three-hour flight from London sounds too good to be true - except it is not a dream but a reality, a country by the name of Morocco.

Morocco is a hugely diverse country with beaches, mountain ranges, cities and desert. The people are most welcoming and friendly and their culture and customs fascinating.

There are two main races in Morocco, the Moroccan Arabs and the Berbers. The Berbers are Morocco’s original inhabitants and still form more than half of the population. They have their own language and mostly live in rural areas in stone houses perched on rocky slopes, overlooking their cultivated terraced fields.

Catherine and I visited two cities in Morocco; Marrakech and Fez. Marrakech, our first stop, is a vibrant, lively and colourful city which has much to offer the visitor. Here you can notice a western influence, in particular amongst the men, and it is now acceptable for women to bare their shoulders in public. Despite this, long skirts that cover the knee should still be worn.

Djemaa el-Fna is Marrakech’s main square where all the action happens. During the day, there are sellers with their fruit and vegetables, but from around 5pm when the weather cools and the sun is setting is when it really comes to life. There are snake charmers, storytellers, fortunetellers, dancers all selling their talents to locals and tourists alike. The square also becomes a large open-air restaurant with a variety of foods to choose from and outdoor seating. Koutoubia Minaret, the famous landmark of the local skyline, dominates one end of the square.

Our accommodation in Marrakech was based in Riads, which are unique to Morocco. Originally houses built for large families, riads are typically plain on the outside but beautiful on the inside where the main feature is a courtyard with plants, flowers and a fountain. All the rooms face inwards towards the courtyard and the fountains are often decorated with roses in the water. Riads are more intimate than your normal hotel; some have a very romantic setting. I found the whole experience of staying in a Riad luxurious and comfortable.

From Marrakech to Fez, we drove through the Atlas Mountains, which offer a spectacular scenery of snow-capped mountains, even in the height of summer.

Fez is quieter and less hectic than Marrakech. Here we enjoyed wandering the souqs, although I would recommend a guide for your first time visiting them because it is very easy to get lost, there being over 30,000 shops! It is very interesting to wander around them; the sights, sounds and smells are something else! You will see craftsmen working and making their goods using traditional tools and methods that have been used for centuries.

The tanneries in Fez are also well worth a visit; you are offered a sprig of mint on entry as the smell can be a little overwhelming because they use ammonia from pigeon droppings in the cleaning process, but the view from above is stunning and well worth it.
I could go on to tell you more about the things Catherine and I did and saw in Morocco but that would spoil it for you. I have only scratched the surface but invite you to visit Morocco yourself and see what an exotic destination Morocco really is.

Click here to view our private journey to Fez and Marrakech.

New Seven Wonders of the World Results

On Saturday 7 July 2007 the results of the new Seven Wonders of the World were announced in Lisbon after months of public voting. The seven wonders chosen were:

Chichen Itza, Mexico
Christ the Redeemer, Brazil

The Great Wall, China

Machu Picchu, Peru

Petra, Jordan

The Roman Colloseum, Italy

The Taj Mahal, India

We can offer tours to see all of the new seven wonders, click here to browse our website.

Vote Closing for New Seven Wonders of the World

Voting ends at midnight tonight in a huge poll to choose the seven modern wonders of the world. The results will be announced in a special ceremony in Lisbon tomorrow (07/07/07), with Machu Picchu, the Colosseum and the Great Wall of China leading the way so far. The project was started by Swiss explorer Bernard Weber, and so far 90 million votes have been cast to choose the 7 wonders from a shortlist of 20. Many tourist boards have been promoting the idea, with Mexico, Peru and Jordan in particular appealing for votes for Chichen Itza, Machu Picchu and Petra respectively.

You can vote for your modern wonder here.

Visit the Cox & Kings blog next week to see the full results.

Zambia in the Green Season

Africa Tour Consultant Anna Flood recently travelled to Zambia in the Green Season.

For the discerning African traveller, Zambia has it all: national parks teeming with wildlife, historical manor houses built in the 1920s, and one of the seven natural wonders of the world, Victoria Falls. What’s more, it is possible to see all of this in an unforgettable two weeks that will leave you hungry to come back for more.

Walking gingerly across a dry riverbed trying not to disturb a lone bull elephant was one of the most exhilarating bush experiences I have ever had. Robin Pope runs a series of ‘Mobile Safaris’ guided by Debs and her team. They are not only exciting, engaging and enjoyable, but also incredibly comfortable. Leaving the car behind means you are one step closer to the animals and to understanding what life in the bush is like.

All the main Robin Pope camps are exquisite in their own way: the opulence of Luangwa House; the history at Nsefu (the very first camp in the park); and the superb tented Tena Tena. The attention to detail, the staff and the superb settings over the Luangwa River are second to none. Despite this, camping by a dry riverbed and sitting round the fire talking to Debs about her life and the park was definitely the highlight for me. The tents are spacious and, with a hot shower and proper facilities, it is a far cry from the images camping usually conjure up. The walking is easy going, the guiding faultless and, with tea-breaks and the knowledge of a back-up vehicle on the end of a radio should you get tired, everything is taken care of.

South Luangwa is famous for, amongst other things, its high concentration of leopard. If you are in search of this elusive cat, this is the place to go. The BBC did not spend two years here filming a leopard documentary for nothing. Even in the lush green season when these cats are much harder to spot, we had two excellent sightings and saw evidence of much more activity in all areas of the park. Watching this incredible predator slink her way through the grasslands was mesmerising. The movement of her body was so fluid and graceful and the balance of the long tail is quite incredible - my first leopard is a moment I shall never forget.

Leaving behind Robin Pope, I set off to John Coppingers camp, Tafika, in the far northern section of the park. John and his wife run a great camp; here you really get a sense of going back to nature. The accommodation is constructed from locally-sourced reed and thatch huts that John and his team re-build ever year, and along with that come a few natural friends. All beds are covered by mosquito nets to stop any creepy-crawlies getting too close for comfort. Occupying another majestical river setting, it was sometimes hard to drag myself away from the strategically placed sun loungers scattered around the grounds.

The quality of the kitchen’s garden and chef was evident at every meal as we were spoilt with homegrown vegetables, freshly made quiches and desserts. You really get a sense of community involvement in the camp - John’s hard work over the years has evidently paid off. Another of Takifa’s attractions is John’s micro-light. He will take you out to see the bush from a different perspective. Swooping down over the Luangwa River is the one time you will witness the mighty crocodile running for cover, and to see the game from above is a truly memorable experience.

I left South Luangwa and headed north to Shiwa Ng’andu. Shiwa is an English Country Manor in deepest darkest Zambia. It tells the story of one man, his love and his struggle to create his dream in Africa. In the 1920s, Sir Stewart Gore-Browne began creating this estate and by 1935 it was a thriving lifeline for the local community. Unfortunately, Gore-Browne’s life was not the fairy tale he had wished for, and over time the house fell into disrepair due to tragic circumstances. Today, however, the dream is alive once more, as his wife Jo and grandson Charlie have taken over management of the estate.
With the monumental task of rebuilding the manor, you cannot help but admire the determination and energy of these two people. In a house large enough to have 27 fireplaces and several wings, the work will keep them busy for years to come. They are re-building dilapidated parts of the house using the original method: by hand making all the bricks on the estate. It is really is an incredible place with a thousand stories to tell and, thanks to the work of Charlie and Jo, Shiwa once again has a bright future. We climbed one of the peaks behind the house that Livingstone climbed when he first arrived in Zambia. Seeing the bush stretching out below I realised why Gore Browne fell in love with this part of the world and made it his home.

Leaving this incredible piece of history we flew down to Victoria Falls, ‘The Smoke That Thunders’. You will never truly be able to understand this phrase until you see this monumental sight for your selves. As we approached, our pilot flew over the falls for us and we could see the snake-like rock formation that has been produced over thousands of years of erosion. The sheer power of the water forces its way through the weakest parts of the rock, and ends in this mighty drop.

I stayed at Tongabezi, where the contrast to the falls is quite striking. The calmness and tranquillity of the Zambezi River, gently meandering down to the falls, is a stark contrast to the frenetic activity and movement of the water further downstream. Sitting on the veranda of the garden cottage, or dining on the deck by the river’s edge, it is hard to imagine that further downstream 500 million litres of water are crashing down a 108 metre gorge every second. With numerous activities available, such as sunset cruises, island dining and trips to Mosi-os-Tunya Game Park as well as more adrenaline filled ones, you can choose to be as relaxed or as active as the river, depending on your mood.

Cox & Kings offers the following options in Zambia, which use Robin Pope camps in the South Luangwa: Zambia: A Robin Pope Safari, Classic Zambia: Two Rivers Safari and Zambia & Lake Malawi. Cox & Kings can also arrange tailor-made tours throughout Zambia.

Green Guyana

Online Marketing Executive Michael Pullman travelled to Guyana, a country that welcomes just 2000 tourists per year, and found a developing destination that is challenging but rewarding to those with a keen sense of adventure.

I travelled to Guyana recently with a small group of tour operators on a familiarisation trip and found a clean, welcoming country rich in wildlife and with a variety of stunning landscapes. However, what impressed me most was the way tourism was developing. Many people have jumped on the eco-tourism bandwagon recently, to the extent where the label has become almost meaningless, but not in Guyana: nearly all the lodges we stayed in were built from locally sourced materials, run in co-operation with local communities and serving locally-grown produce, ensuring not only that tourism has a minimal environmental impact but also that local communities reap the benefits. Whilst the accommodation in some areas is basic, and you may have to share it with the odd creature (one night one of our group had a large spider, a bird and a frog as room-mates) the pristine rainforests, colourful wildlife and beautiful scenery more than make up for this.

In the centre of Guyana lies the Iwokrama Forest, which covers 1 million acres of rainforest, and which was granted as a gift to the international community by the President of Guyana in 1989. Administered by a collection of international forestry agencies, the Iwokrama Rainforest is a living model showing how tropical rainforests can be conserved and sustainability used to provide ecological, social and economic benefits to all. There is very little logging in Guyana, the region has a healthy jaguar population, and with the tourism industry developing slowly and responsibly Guyana is something of a model for eco-tourism

So knowing you can come here with a clean conscience and be sure your tourist dollars are making a difference, here are some of the highlights of my trip:

The Giant River Otters at Karanambu Ranch. Karanambu Ranch is the home of Diane McTurk, well known for her work rehabilitating orphaned Giant River Otters before releasing them to the wild. Guests can sometimes swim with the otters, although we decided not to take our chances with the four resident otters when we visited (below).



An evening boat trip on the Rupununi River. The owners of Karanambu Ranch look after their guests very well; after a lunch of Moussaka and apple crumble (the sweet puddings of Guyana are a hangover from the British colonial era) we headed out for an afternoon boat trip on the Rupununi. The river is home to magnificent birdlife but the highlight for me was the covering of giant lily pads, which you can observe flowering as dusk falls. We watched this nature show with generous amounts of rum punch, made by our onboard barman, before heading back to the ranch under a blanket of the clearest stars I have ever seen.

Kaieteur Falls: In the two hours we toured Kaieteur Falls we saw three other tourists. The Falls are spectacular in scale, the largest single drop falls in the world, but unlike most major waterfalls there is no souvenir shop, café, or even handrail separating the tourist from the flowing water.










Surama Village: The fact that Guyana is English-speaking means visitors can really interact with the locals. At Surama we visited the primary school where we took part in perhaps the largest hokey cokey Guyana has ever seen, after listening to the students sing a song about Surama (see below).



Rock View Lodge: Rock View Lodge has plenty of obvious assets: The refreshing swimming pool; the extensive vegetable gardens providing fresh ingredients for the fantastic food; the warm and friendly staff; the range of activities on offer; and the magnificent setting where the savannah meets the jungle. What I liked above all was the fact that Rock View is a focal point of the charming villages surrounding the lodge. Schoolchildren pass by on their way to school. Locals drink in the lodge’s Dakota Bar. Whilst here I took a ten minute walk to the charming village of Annai and watched an inter-village football game take place against a stunning setting on the plains of the savannah.

Becoming a twitcher: I’m not about to start spending weekends in hides birdwatching in the UK, but I couldn’t help but become interested in the colourful birds of Guyana, and by the end I knew my yellow rump from my white throated toucans (left).

Wally Prince: Our guide at Iwokrama Field Station, Wally Prince, responding to our calls for a closer look at a three-foot cayman by fishing it out of the water with his bare hands during a night time boat trip.

The Trip: Visit Guyana on our 11-night Guyana Experience tour. For more information on Guyana visit Wilderness Explorers, our agents in Guyana.

New Petra Blog

Those of you who have either visited or are planning to visit the breathtaking site of Petra in Jordan may be interested in ...this blog... from the Jordan Tourism Board. We like it because it is more entertaining than many Tourist Board blogs, and it is a must visit for anyone who has been or is planning to go to Petra.

Before the Incas

Latin America Tour Consultant Marie-Louisa Lowther recently travelled to Peru and discovered there is more to the country’s ancient cultures than the Incas.

My second trip to Peru was a real eye opener. Apart from the fact that this time around I was travelling in style as opposed to living on a shoestring, I also visited some little known places that made me realise that there is so much more to the ancient cultures of Peru than Machu Picchu.

Being the most recent culture before the Spanish invaded, the achievements of the Incas, whilst awe-inspiring, are fairly well-documented compared to some of the pre-Inca civilisations. In fact, very little is known to the outside world about the ten or more centuries that preceded these people: the time of the great Mochita and Chimu cultures.

Peru's northern coast is home to some of the country's greatest archaeological treasures, which were built by the highly skilled pre-Inca people who once thrived in the region.

The Moche or Mochita people had an extremely long reign, from about 200 to 900 AD. They ruled through the time of the Nazcas, the Mexican Mayans and the Roman Empire. Although they had no writing system, their culture was extremely sophisticated for its time, and is now remembered for its fine ceramics and masterful metalwork.

The Sun and Moon Temples (left) near Trujillo form the former Moche capital, one of the most important urban ceremonial centres of the pre-Inca societies. The site has only been excavated since 1991 and still has few visitors today. The Moon Temple is open to the public, and consists of three platforms and four plazas, surrounded by decorated adobe walls. The Sun Temple, which is currently under excavation, may well prove to be the largest adobe building in the world. In the plain between the two temples lies the urban area, or old Moche - a series of structures that have remained covered by a thin layer of sand and sediment.

For another fine example of the Mochita rule, travel further north along the coast to the archaeological complex of 'El Brujo', which means 'the wizard or shaman'. Its origins date back more than 5,000 years and the site is very well preserved considering its age. It was used by shaman and even today still attracts the witches of the region, who travel here to evoke the spirits of their ancestors, to treat illness and fight against evil spirits. Last year a 1,600 year old mummy ruler was discovered here, tattooed and embalmed, and buried with sacrificial slaves, animals and symbols of power.

Further up the cost still lies the tomb of Lord Sipan (left), one of the great Moche rulers. A modern and majestic museum has been built in the shape of a pyramid to represent the original tomb, and has many original exhibits, each piece cleaned and restored to the smallest detail. Lord Sipan himself, who is believed to be one of the most important figures of ancient Peru, is buried in the museum and visitors can see his skeleton. The original tomb was badly looted, with many of the artefacts ending up in the hands of private collectors such as Enrico Poli, whose private museum in Lima is one of the most impressive in the world. Whilst some question whether such national treasures should be in a private collection, Poli claims that he is offering the chance to view the treasures, and if he had not bought them these important artefacts would end up abroad.

Subsequent to the Moche period was the Chimu Kingdom, the pre-Inca period. The Chimu ruled from the 9th century until 1450, when the Incas invaded. Chan Chan (left) near Trujillo is the former capital, and consists of a number of adobe palaces spread out over 15 kilometres. Of these, only the dragon or rainbow temple and the central Tschudi Palace can be visited. The temples are decorated with symmetrical wall drawings, which were originally coloured, though now all the dye has disappeared. Excavations begun here in 1964 and are still underway. There is also a very good museum displaying artefacts discovered in Chan Chan, including pottery and tools.

This is just the start. Visit Caral (left), three hours north of Lima - the remains of one of the world's oldest cities and the oldest city in the Americas, recently discovered and still under excavation. Further north still, Kuelap has huge defensive walls and castles involving three times more material than the Egyptian pyramids, and Leymebamba has its fantastic collection of pre- Inca mummies.

Venturing slightly off the beaten track in Peru, visitors can see these amazing ruins of ancient cities, and discover a little about life before the Incas.
Cox & Kings’ 17 Day / 15 Night Civilisations of Peru tour visits Lima, Chan Chan and the Tomb of Sipan in Trujillo, Kuelap, Leymebamba, Cuzco and Machu Picchu, and starts from £3,295 per person. Cox & Kings can also arrange tailor-made tours to Peru.

Libya

Cox & Kings' PR & Publications Executive Laura Smith recently travelled with a group of journalists on Cox & Kings' Libyan Long Weekend.

Day One – London to Tripoli
Having grown up in Australia, I never cease to be amazed at where a short flight from the UK can get you. Just three hours after leaving London, we touch down in Tripoli, and we’re plunged into a different country – a different continent, even – with a different culture, language, currency and cuisine.

Ours seems to be the only flight arriving, and the airport is quiet. Security guards stand chatting and laughing over a cigarette. To my relief, there are no lingering locals waiting to take our bags or offer us a trolley in return for cash. We’re met by our guide, Mohammed, and driver Osama, and after one of the most relaxed and hassle-free airport experiences I’ve had anywhere, let alone in the Middle East, we arrive at the Corinthia, Libya’s finest hotel. Our rooms are huge, and have wonderful views of the Mediterranean.

Day Two – Sabratha and Janzur
After tearing myself away from the largest and most comprehensive buffet spread I have ever seen, it is time to set off for Sabratha, around 45 minutes’ drive away.

Sabratha is relatively small, and we wander around the city at a relaxed pace, taking in the remains and imagining how impressive it would have looked in its day. The restored theatre is particularly spectacular. Mohammed explains that performances are still carried out here occasionally. This must be one of the greatest places to see a play in the world, with the gentle sound of the sea providing a backdrop to the action.
There is a small museum on the edge of the city, which contains the beautiful mosaics that tiled the floor of the Basilica. The detail is incredible, and Mohammed explains how we can tell what era a mosaic dates to by its level of detail. In the Byzantine era, time was precious. Mosaics were simple, with large chunks of stone arranged in simple patterns. The Roman era was more secure, with lesser threat of invasion, and Sabratha’s inhabitants were able to spend years creating mosaics of far more intricate design. The same goes for the coins. Roman coins were large and heavy, with intricate patterns printed on from rubber stamps. Byzantine coins were far smaller, barely marked with a knife to show their worth.

Next on the itinerary is Janzur. We pull up at a small house on the roadside, where our driver gets out and greets the doorkeeper warmly. Mohammed explains that 50 years ago the owner of this house dug up an ancient tomb in his garden. The house was soon taken over by historians, and several more tombs were excavated. “Keep quiet next time” is Mohammed’s insightful lesson to the resident, who inevitably lost his house.

But thank goodness he didn’t. The tombs are beautiful - intricately painted and still filled with original ‘tomb furniture’. We sit inside one of the tiny tombs, as Mohammed explains the stories behind the beautiful artwork.

After a long day’s sightseeing, we’re ravenous, so we ask Mohammed for a recommendation for dinner. There’s no need to be accompanied on an evening out in Libya. It is fairly late when we head out, and yet I feel completely safe. Travelling as a Western woman in a Muslim country, you come to expect some curious looks at the very least, perhaps the odd comment. In Tripoli, there are very few Muslim women around in the evening – their male counterparts seem to occupy the cafes and restaurants in small groups - yet nobody blinks an eyelid at my late-night appearance in Western attire and uncovered hair.

The restaurant we visit is located above a café, close to Tripoli’s clock tower. We take our shoes off on entry and settle on typical carpeted floor. A pair of Libyan musicians play in the corner, despite us being their first diners of the evening. No menus here: we are presented on arrival with fresh bread and humous, and then with Libyan soup - a thick Lentil based soup, with chunks of delicious beef, and vegetables. Plates are quickly cleared and "meat or fish" offered as main course options, just before hugely generous portions of good home cooking are brought out, steaming hot.

Day Three - Tripoli
Today we have a full guided tour of Tripoli. We start in the Jamahiriya museum, housed in the Red Castle where the entrance to the city once stood. Here is a sizeable collection of original and replica statues, mosaic and frescoes that have been collected from the city and surrounding areas.

Colonel Gaddaffi’s 1960s VW Beetle has also made it into this museum. Somewhat out of place, but interesting nonetheless.

On the other side of the museum stands Marcus Aurelius Arch. This is the only standing Roman building in Tripoli, and was only discovered when Alexander the Great ordered a large road to be built running through the Red Castle and along the coastline.
Tripoli’s Medina, or old town, is crowded with locals, shopping in the souq and drinking in cafes. People are certainly very relaxed here or, as Mohammed puts it, “lazy”. The souq itself is similar to those I had encountered in Egypt and Morocco – bustling and full of conflicting sounds and smells. But the lack of hassle is a complete surprise. Here, visitors actually feel comfortable approaching a stall and browsing, perhaps even showing interest in one or two things, before moving on. In Marrakesh you only have to come within 10 yards of a stall before getting completely harangued by the owner.

Green Square links the medina with the new city, built by the Italians. Distinctly Mediterranean, the square is surrounded by palm trees and Libyan flags. The streets that lead from the square, including the revered 3rd September Street, named after the date of revolution in 1969, are lined with expensive-looking shops. A burger bar has recently opened here, though there are no western chains to be found. Yet.

Day Four - Leptis Magna
An early start this morning, and the sun is already high in the sky. The Roman city of Leptis Magna, just over an hour’s drive from our hotel, is the reason most visitors come to Libya.

The sheer scale of Leptis Magna is enough to take your breath away. In its day, the city stretched three kilometres along the Mediterranean coast, and comprised of arches, baths, houses, shopping streets, churches and basilicas. At its entrance stands the imposing Arch of Septimus Severus, named after Leptis Magna's most famous son and Emperor of the Roman Empire from 193 - 211. Septimus Severus was the first Emperor to be born in Africa, and he later died in York whilst overseeing reconstruction of Hadrian's Wall. Over 20 metres high, the arch has lifestyle scenes intricately carved in to the rock. I could spend hours poring over the arch alone, but Mohammed ushers us forward. There is a lot more to see.

I am struck immediately by the scarcity of visitors at the site. The visitor car park has just a few vehicles parked up, and the small outdoor cafes are deserted. Two small groups of Libyan school children arrive and both set off in different directions at the Arch. The size of Leptis means that it is easy for visitors to take different routes and not bump into one another again.

Mohammed’s passion for Leptis Magna is infectious. His eyes wide with enthusiasm, he tells us fascinating stories of bloodshed and betrayal, but also helps us imagine daily life in the city. He occasionally asks us to imagine there was an extra wall here, or a second floor there, to build a picture of how things were. I struggle, my spatial imagination letting me down, but Mohammed whirs on, re-building the empire in his mind’s eye. It’s as though he has lived through every moment of the city’s history.

Even now, only a third of Leptis has been excavated, and we’re all left wondering what lies beneath our feet as we wander around. For me, the Roman baths are a real highlight. We learn how individually heated rooms took Leptis Magna’s residents from warm, to hot, to steamy, to boiling, to cool again – all with under-floor heating. Today, women across the world pay a fortune for this kind of experience.

I am in complete disbelief that 2,000 years ago, people lived in cities with 8-foot tall marble pillars and 20-foot arches, frequented the circus and the theatre, took hot baths and exfoliated their skin. How is it that people lived so well two millennia ago, whilst just over a hundred years ago Londoners were living in fairly squalid conditions in the Victorian era. Of course, the African slaves living in Leptis would have had a different tale to tell I’m sure.

Undoubtedly the most breathtaking sight is that of Leptis Magna’s amphitheatre. Located around a kilometre up the coast from the city centre - to avoid escaped lions entering the community, we’re told - the amphitheatre is an awesome construction, expertly built from golden stone against a backdrop of blue sky and the glittering Mediterranean Sea. Arriving at 3.30pm, we are the only visitors to the structure which once held 16,000 spectators.

Unlike the Colosseum, here you can walk up and down the many rows of seats, wander freely around the main stage, and even disappear into the bowels of the building, following the winding underground passages that gladiators and animals would have used. Our group has a lot of fun fighting imaginary lions and making loud calls to hear our voices echo impressively around the massive structure.

We watch the sun set as we travel back to Tripoli in the minibus. We have a farewell dinner in the Corinthia hotel’s Moroccan restaurant, Fes. Tonight’s delicacies include spicy Moroccan soup, delicious pigeon pastillas, traditional tagines with couscous, and cocktails. Non-alcoholic, of course. The following day it’s back to London with a head full of memories.